Anyone see any problems?

Tumtum, Nicely done!
Here are 2 things I would modify:
1. If you have room, make the main isle 3" and the side isle's 2". Make sure you can walk and work comfortably on the back sides of the trellises.
2. Put the summer squashes at the corners along the wide isle so they can fall over the sides when they get big. Unless you are planning to grow them vertically, in which case, you will really, really need to stay on top of the training. The leaves get huge!

Other folks may share their wisdom, and experience!

I would swap the Swiss chard and the lettuce squares.  Swiss chard grows mighty large and throws shade around it so keeping it in the north end will work better.

Because I have no experience I will offer no advice, but I do have a question.

Would it not be better to plant the lettuce along the side of the foreground beds instead of at the center?  Will it not be more difficult to harvest the lettuce with the onion stalks in the way?

Great diagram!  You are going to be a busy bee with that garden.

Sanderson, did you mean 3 foot and 2 foot aisles? MY guess about the lettuce is it will be done and bolted before either the onions or the chard are too tall.

Rabbithutch....With 3 ft square beds there should NOT be any problem reaching anything in those beds.  I wish mine were 3 ft wide.

Wow, both of you raise very valid points!

The only thing that I didn't do yet is change the placement of the summer squash (zucchini)... This is because I read (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants) that it isn't a smart idea to place cucumber near tomatoes.

Then, I read elsewhere (http://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato-Companions.htm) that cucumber can be placed by tomatoes...

Which is correct?!

tumtumsback wrote:Wow, both of you raise very valid points!

The only thing that I didn't do yet is change the placement of the summer squash (zucchini)... This is because I read (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants) that it isn't a smart idea to place cucumber near tomatoes.

Then, I read elsewhere (http://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato-Companions.htm) that cucumber can be placed by tomatoes...

Which is correct?!

in your reading does it say WHY to not put cuke and tomatoes near each other?>

Hmm, it does not -- maybe I shouldn't trust that Wikipedia list. I assume it has something to do with leaves and crowding out, more-so than disease susceptibility?!

I just went to that Wiki page and deleted Tomatoes from the list of things to avoid for Cucumbers - muhuhahahah  

tumtumsback wrote:Hmm, it does not -- maybe I shouldn't trust that Wikipedia list. I assume it has something to do with leaves and crowding out, more-so than disease susceptibility?!

I just went to that Wiki page and deleted Tomatoes from the list of things to avoid for Cucumbers - muhuhahahah  

Oh good lord! 
this totally cracked me up!

www.ghorganics.com

Under cucumbers: "it is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other."

Under tomatoes: "Tomato allies are many: . . . cucumber . . ."

Oh the contradiction goes on... Can we get any expert validation?! Has anyone placed tomatoes directly next to cucumbers and had any bad results? Any amazing result?!

I say pfft. Plant em where you want em. Just make sure there is good trellis and feed them with a topdressing of compost if necessary.

What type of cukes are you thinking of planting?

Ditto. Plant 'em.

I've had no problems planting cukes next to tomatoes.  

I  intentionally planted onions next to beans, which is supposed to be a no-no.  Other than the beans trying to wrap around the onions, they both grew just fine, and the beans did not pick up onion flavor.

May I suggest a valid area of concern? Learn all about SVB and how to deal with them. They like squashes a lot, and have frustrated gardeners to the point that they quit growing squashes.

I had tomatoes, cukes, and melons all planted next to each other last year.  Everything did fine.

I planted 2 cukes and 2 tomatoes on the same 4' trellis space.  Both did fine.  

Kay

boffer wrote:I've had no problems planting cukes next to tomatoes.  

I  intentionally planted onions next to beans, which is supposed to be a no-no.  Other than the beans trying to wrap around the onions, they both grew just fine, and the beans did not pick up onion flavor.

May I suggest a valid area of concern?  Learn all about SVB and how to deal with them.  They like squashes a lot, and have frustrated gardeners to the point that they quit growing squashes.  

+1

camprn wrote:Sanderson, did you mean 3 foot and 2 foot aisles?  MY guess about the lettuce is it will be done and bolted before either the onions or the chard are too tall.

Yes, FEET, not inches.  

Thanks everyone, I was just having headaches about trying to avoid the cukes and toms.  But that raises a new question  

Boffer wrote that "May I suggest a valid area of concern? Learn all about SVB and how to deal with them. They like squashes a lot, and have frustrated gardeners to the point that they quit growing squashes.


What does SVB mean?

Thanks

Christine

squash vine borer

Wow... Did my research -- SVB are no joke   

It seems I'll have to keep a close eye towards the base of these zucchini and butternut squash plants, and look for critters trying to make the base of the plant their own little bug-cave.

If I sense that an SVB is lurking in the bottom of the plant, I can cut it open with an x-acto knife (gently enough so that the plant can heal itself) and remove the insect that has bored its way on in!

  THANK YOU FOR THE HEADS UP BOFF! Life saver as always  

In the book "Carrots Love Tomatoes and Roses Love Garlic: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening" http://www.amazon.com/CARROTS-LOVE-TOMATOES-ROSES-GARLIC/dp/1580178294/ref=la_B001H6IT68_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1392866404&sr=1-5

it says that tomatoes and brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc) repel each other and should be kept apart. Tomatoes also dislike potatoes and fennel. Tomatoes protect asparagus against the asparagus beetle. Tomatoes are compatible with chives, onion, parsley, marigolds, nasturtium, and carrots. Oh and don't plant tomatoes near corn.

As for cucumbers it says that corn will protect it against the virus that causes wilt. a few radishes in each cucumber hill protects against cucumber beetles. Leave the radishes and let them bloom and go to seed. Cucumbers dislike potatoes and aromatic herbs.

For squash it says the same thing about the radishes and protection from insects. Nasturtiums help repel squash bugs as well as cigarette ash and tobacco residue if placed with the seed when it is planted.

Hope this helps!! In my anecdotal experience, a tomato planted near a zucchini plant did quite poorly till I ended up pulling the zucchini (due to cucumber mosaic virus) and then the tomato plant took off and produced heavily till frost killed it.

tumtumsback wrote:Wow... Did my research -- SVB are no joke   

It seems I'll have to keep a close eye towards the base of these zucchini and butternut squash plants, and look for critters trying to make the base of the plant their own little bug-cave.

If I sense that an SVB is lurking in the bottom of the plant, I can cut it open with an x-acto knife (gently enough so that the plant can heal itself) and remove the insect that has bored its way on in!

  THANK YOU FOR THE HEADS UP BOFF! Life saver as always  

here is a link for a thread on SVB and companion planting....some good advice here
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t3701-companion-planting-to-control-squash-bugs-vine-borers

another link for general companion planting...some good discussions
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t3701-companion-planting-to-control-squash-bugs-vine-borers

hope this helps   
Rose