Hello from Myrtle Beach!

I've been wanting to do this for years-and I'm finally going all out!  I'm really hoping I can get the feedback that will help me do it right!  Super excited!

OK, so I'm preparing to get started this season. I'm in Myrtle Beach, SC, so I'm thinking I can manage several harvests before the next cold season plagues us!

Here's what I've done:

I have a large pavered patio space directly behind my kitchen area.  I ordered (and received) 4, 2 X 8 foot cedar boxes.  They are 10 inches deep, and honestly, I love them!  

I also ordered a porch swing that will actually hang directly in the french doors off my kitchen, so I can sit and enjoy my garden daily.

Now, the questions:  I have planned everything out on graph paper...right down to the crops, harvest season, and planting dates.  What I'm wondering is this....is there anyone I can get to look at my sketches and tell me if I should move anything around?  I've got a few of the same things side by side-which I know is not ideal for lazy bugs-but, aesthetically it will provide the look I'm going for.

As mentioned above, ANY help is appreciated!  I want to be successful so as to avoid discouragement!

Hi, Kathy & welcome to the forum! Just post some pictures of your plan, including orientation to the sun and I'm sure you'll get the feedback you're wanting.

Wow, Kathy! Sounds like you have a nice plan and set-up! Welcome to SFG! Yes, this is the place to get opinions, when you ask, we shall deliver! Many of us are noobs, but there are a bunch of seasoned vets on here that will be able to help you with planning, placement, etc.

Can you post your plans? Then folks can chime in and give you some tips on what they have experienced, and Mel would recommend!

Once again, from Ohio! Can't wait to see what you have planned!

Us, too, Kathy! Can't wait to be a part of your journey. Post pictures, they are uber helpful!

As far as sun orientation goes, I haven't gotten that far.  However, this is a very open area; meaning very little shade.  I can create shade if needed.

Hi Kathy. Welcome from Atlanta, GA. We're glad you're here with us.

Don't have time to look at plans at this moment, but will try tomorrow...

Again, welcome!

I briefly look over your layout and the only things that popped a flag for me was your tomatoes. In the past mine start out all cute and stay in their square but by mid season they are monster that block the squares around them. So here is my thoughts: what type/ (determinate or indeterminate) kind of tomatoes are you planning on growing? I always get them confused but one is bushy and the other is a vine, I think.  if its the vine one you should be good but if its bushy you might hat to check out how to prune them and keep it up not slack like I have done halfway through the season.

Good luck and a very exciting season!!!!

OK, looks good, keep in mind that anything trellised should be next to each other, pole beans, etc.  Are you trellising your cukes? In general, trellises should be on the north end of your garden.  And tomatoes are very needy (but worth it) and indeterminant types can take over and overshadow shorter crops.  Any succession plans for the tulip squares?

  Kathy Gizzi  
from Kelejan  

Some people put their corn in a block of four squares and that helps with fertilization.

Look forward to seeing your progress.  Always exciting growing some of you food for the first time.

Kathy, Welcome to the Forum from California! We are here to help you. My best advice is to get a copy of All New Square Foot Gardening as it is a great reference as you start your journey. Yes, post photos, we love them.

Hi Kathy, I agree that corn should be grown in a block of at least 4 squares, each with 4 plants. Determinant tomatoes tend to bush out so I would put them on corners with cages. Indeterminates can be supported with the trellis if you select the main stem and one or two suckers to train up the trellis. Summer squash spreads out so they should also be in corners so they can fall over the edge. Winter squash is one per square and can be trained up the trellis. The leaves can get huge, creating shade.

This is your first garden so everything should be considered a great experiment. You will learn so, so much about how the plants will actually grow, how big, how tall.

Yes, this first year just plant as per your plan and you will see what happens to some plants.  Then you can adjust as you learn.

You will have enough successes that should encourage you.

Last year I planted some tomatoes in a bed, they seemed to take forever to grow then finally took off and I realised I had not given them enough room. This year I will intersperse them with crops like lettuce that can be harvested, leaving room for the spreaders after refurbishing the  used squares with a trowel of compost.

OK, I revamped a few things to keep all of my corn together.  I am planning on using the vine tomatoes, so they will be trellised.

I've attached the reworked version, as well as a pic of where it will all go.  For directional purposed, my house is to the north. So, like I said, there is rarely shade.  However, I am planning on placing 2 of my boxes along the wall of the porch.  Those will be my boxes with trellises.  That way, the railing can offer support, and I can direct them onto the railing if need be.  The swing will hang in that back french door.

Next question, tulips.  Everything I am reading tells me that they are next to impossible to order at this time of year.  Apparently, I should have ordered and planted them in the winter.  Am I too late for them this year?  Will they actually bloom this year-or am I in waiting until next spring?  They are my absolute FAVORITE flower, so I'd really like some this year!

Also, onions.  I'm lost here.  My sister said, "make sure you buy your pairs early, or you wont find them".......

To be honest, I played along-but I have no idea what that even means!!!!!! HELP! This is all so overwhelming! 

Kathy - BREATHE! Just take a deep breath...

Many plants are helped by starting them indoors. Just think about the plants you get from the big box stores. They were all started in a greenhouse of some type. Really, the only things that are difficult to start indoors are beans, carrots, & corn. That's because they don't like their roots disturbed by transplanting.

Tulips - boy, I hope you're wrong because I've got some that I need to get in the ground too! ;-)

Cabbage, spinach, cauli, broccoli are all cold-weather plants. Get them going immediately if you want any kind of harvest. Once it starts getting warm, they get bitter &/or don't produce, &/or "bolt" or go to seed.

Everything else you can get going now too. They are warm-weather plants, so you won't be able to get them in the ground for a while, but they'll benefit by added growth before transplanting.

Beans, carrots, corn, peas - direct sow after your last frost date - probably around April 15... The soil needs to be at least 55-60 degrees for them to germinate.

Thank you so much Marie!

We plant our tulips in the Fall for a Spring showing of flowers. I planted some bulbs in my SFG boxes.  Just have to make sure I don't mistakenly eat any of the bulbs.

Got the following off the Web:


"Tulips, narcissus, and daffodils rarely cause fatalities, but do containtoxic glycosides that may cause dizziness, abdominal pain and upset, and even, on occasion, convulsions. In the past during times of food shortages, the bulbs have been consumed, mistaken for onions, another lily."

Went with Johnny's Seeds.  All seeds have been ordered.  I also got starter trays and some fun other stuff-including a heating mat!  Can't wait!

Sadly, I'll be traveling most of the rest of this month, so the outdoor bed starting won't happen until after 02/27.   With the cold that is forcasted, I'm thinking that will be OK.  Inside seeds will be started as soon as they arrive though!

Kathy Gizzi wrote:Thank you so much Marie!

You're welcome, lol! Believe me, I know how easy it is to get overwhelmed with all these plans. :-)

Just ask questions. You might look in the archives as well. There's LOTS of good info there!

You know we're all here to help you succeed....!

Just wanted to jump on real quick and say a very heartfelt "thank you" to everyone here!

When I started this process, I planned, planned, planned.  Still, even with all of the prep, the entire process seemed very overwhelming to me.  I read ANSFG cover to cover before I even hit these forums.  The book, of course, has proven invaluable (although I'd like to see the spacing for more fruits and veggies).  

I followed all of the guidelines, asked a lot of questions (most of them just ridiculous!), and pressed on!

I am proud to say that I think I am past the feeling of being completely overwhelmed!  Yes, I've lost a few plants, but who cares???!!!  The beauty of this process is its' renewability!  I believe I've finally reached the point of feeling comfortable enough to experiment a bit and not be hugely disappointed with the outcome if it is not as expected.

COULD NOT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT THIS BOARD!!!!!!

If the number of seeds to plant is not in the book, there is a formula you can use.  

12 divided by the spacing on the seed packet squared.

For instance.  If the seed pack says final spacing is 6 inches.
                    12/6=2 squared = 4 per square foot

For instance.  If the seed pack says final spacing is 3 inches.
                    12/3 = 4 squared = 16 per square foot

For instance.  If the seed pack says final spacing is 4 inches.
                    12/4 = 3 squared = 9 per square foot

Some other findings based on internet googling.
If the packet says thin to 12 inches = 1 per square foot
If the packet says thin to 8 inches = 2 per square foot
If the packet says thin to 6 inches = 4 per square foot
If the packet says thin to 4 inches = 9 per square foot
If the packet says thin to 3 inches = 16 per square foot

There are also lots of gardeners that have put the spacing for various vegetables on the internet.

Here is one site. I have no idea if the following information is accurate or not.  You really ought to go to this website.  The site gives information about planting each vegetable and fertilizer requirements etc.  She does not use SFG fully but it is still informative.  Her MM is a little different than the traditional MM.
http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/plant-spacing/

     

	Plant	# Per Square	Plant	Spacing	# of Squares
	Basil	4	Arithocke	48″	not suitable for SFG
	Beans, bush	9
	Beans, pole	8	Asparagus	12″	not suitable for SFG
	Beets	9
	Carrots	16	Broccoli	18″	4 per 9 squares
	Celery	1	Brussels sprouts	18″	4 per 9 squares
	Chives	9	Cabbage	18″	4 per 9 squares
	Cilantro	9	Cantaloupe	24″	2 with trellis
	Collard greens	1	Cauliflower	18″	4 per 9 squares
	Corn	3	Pumpkins	24″	2 with trellis
	Cucumbers	2	Rhubarb	36″	not suitable for SFG
	Dill	1
	Eggplant	1	Summer squash	24″	4 with cage
	Garlic	4 or 9	Tomatoes	12″	1 with stakes
	Kale	1		24″	4 with cage
	Kohlrabi	4		36″	9 no support
	Leeks	4 or 9	Watermelon	24″	2 with trellis
	Lettuce, leaf	4	Winter Squash	24″	2 with trellis
	Lettuce, head	1	Zucchini	24″	4 with cage
	Mustard greens	16
	Okra	1
	Onions, storage	4 or 9
	Onions, green	16
	Oregano	1
	Parsley	1
	Parsnips	16
	Peas	8
	Peppers	1
	Potatoes	1
	Radishes	16
	Rosemary	1
	Rutabagas	4
	Spinach	9
	Sweet potatoes	1
	Swiss Chard	4
	Turnips	9

Kathy,
Welcome from NC by Surf City. You have quite a Grand Plan but what else should we expect from someone from the Grand Strand!

Starting out can be overwhelming, but from your latest post and looking at the post dates, it looks like you are well on your way. I am no expert at what to do, but I have learned a lot about what NOT to do AND that you need to expect the unexpected (e.g.-kudzu bugs, end-rot, damping off, etc) One of the unexpected things I experience was the size of the Zucchini leaves - easily 14" across and going out in all directions.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Dill is one per square?  Pretty sure I did 9!!!!