N&C Midwest April 2022

nrstooge wrote:Still to cold here in Iowa to plant outside.. but my growlights are full with seedlings.  I may try to get some of the cold hardy plants into the patio greenhouse this week.

JAM23 wrote: It's going to be cold through about Tuesday here and the 60's and 70's by next weekend. Also thinking about direct sowing some beets, carrots, kale, lettuce swiss chard and kohlrabi this weekend but nervous it's still a tad too early. Just having a hard time waiting!

JAM23 wrote:I haven't. I don't own a soil thermometer. Maybe that is where I should start 

JAM23 wrote:I have a question then about soil temperatures. If the guide says that something can be sowed "as soon as the soil can be worked" but it's not the correct temperature for the seeds to germinate, say 60-85 degrees, do the seeds just sit there until the temperature of the soil rises? If so, what is the benefit of getting seeds in when the soil is workable if they just sit there for a few weeks?

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:I haven't. I don't own a soil thermometer. Maybe that is where I should start 

The soil thermometer, the compost thermometer, and the moisture meter are three of my most important garden tools, and they are inexpensive to purchase.

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:I have a question then about soil temperatures. If the guide says that something can be sowed "as soon as the soil can be worked" but it's not the correct temperature for the seeds to germinate, say 60-85 degrees, do the seeds just sit there until the temperature of the soil rises? If so, what is the benefit of getting seeds in when the soil is workable if they just sit there for a few weeks?

This is a jolly good question!  Most occasions where you see "as soon as the soil can be worked" refers to plants that are started indoors and then transplanted into the garden.  The soil temp for germination is very important, though.  For an example of something that is listed as "as soon as the soil can be worked" is Kale.  I start Kale seeds indoors on a heat mat so that they have the 70ºF to 90ºF temp they need for germination, and transplant them into the garden in mid- to late-March, "as soon as the soil can be worked".  The Kale seeds would not germinate if direct sowed into the garden in mid-March, they would just rot in the soil, but the easily germinate in the house on a heat mat.

JAM23 wrote:

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:I haven't. I don't own a soil thermometer. Maybe that is where I should start 

The soil thermometer, the compost thermometer, and the moisture meter are three of my most important garden tools, and they are inexpensive to purchase.

Would you be able to recommend which of these to purchase? Which brands you have had the most success with?

JAM23 wrote:Would this be a good way to look at it then:

If a plant can be transplanted (i.e. kale, lettuce, swiss chard, kohlrabi, etc) then start indoors and then transplant. If you wanted to direct sow these plants then wait until the soil temperature if optimal.

If however a plant requires direct sow from the start (i.e. beets, carrots) just wait until the soil temperature is ideal. 

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:Would this be a good way to look at it then:

If a plant can be transplanted (i.e. kale, lettuce, swiss chard, kohlrabi, etc) then start indoors and then transplant. If you wanted to direct sow these plants then wait until the soil temperature if optimal.

Yes, and no.  Lettuce and Spinach are excellent early direct-sow seeds, since they prefer cooler soil temps. Other cool weather crops, though, such as Kale and Swiss Chard prefer warm soil to germinate, but prefer cool weather to grow.  So, it is best to start those seeds indoors on a heat mat 4 to 6 weeks ahead of time, and then transplant into the garden while the weather is still cool.  I currently have kale and swiss chard growing under lights, and they will transplanted into the garden in the next week or two.

If however a plant requires direct sow from the start (i.e. beets, carrots) just wait until the soil temperature is ideal. 

Root crops , such as those beets and carrots, do not transplant well. These root crops will develop split roots, etc., if they are transplanted. It is best to direct sow those at the correct time.  And, remember that here in the midwest we can grow cool weather crops both in the early spring, and the late fall. The fit into the succession panting schedules very well.

OhioGardener wrote:It is the 18th of April,and it is snowing!

yolos wrote:

OhioGardener wrote:It is the 18th of April,and it is snowing!

It is also last day to file taxes without an extension.

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:

OhioGardener wrote:

JAM23 wrote:I haven't. I don't own a soil thermometer. Maybe that is where I should start 

The soil thermometer, the compost thermometer, and the moisture meter are three of my most important garden tools, and they are inexpensive to purchase.

Would you be able to recommend which of these to purchase? Which brands you have had the most success with?

The ones I have are the Reotemp Compost Thermometer, the Taylor Soil Thermometer, and the Mosser Soil Moisture Meter.  There are other options, possibly less expensive, but these have served me well for years.

https://www.amazon.com/REOTEMP-Backyard-Compost-Thermometer-Instructions/dp/B002P5RGMI

https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Soil-Testing-Thermometer-Degrees/dp/B0030JWAVA/ref=sr_1_8?crid=IVNRGCLBJ0XX&keywords=Soil+Thermometer&qid=1650124438&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=soil+thermometer%2Clawngarden%2C91&sr=1-8

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mosser-Lee-Soil-Master-Moisture-Meter/3028417