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Cabin Fever
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CitizenKate
plantoid
Scorpio Rising
CapeCoddess
trolleydriver
littlesapphire
sanderson
mschaef
audrey.jeanne.roberts
Zmoore
14 posters
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Re: Cabin Fever
OK, thanks for all the advice! I am gonna go with the 2x8s and drill pilot holes as I learn to use my little drill/driver...gotta take lessons from a neighbor who does construction, he is actually being very sweet about it...
My local lumber yard will do whatever you want for free after you buy the wood. Gotta keep those guys in business!
Thanks again for all the opinions....
My local lumber yard will do whatever you want for free after you buy the wood. Gotta keep those guys in business!
Thanks again for all the opinions....
Scorpio Rising- Posts : 8712
Join date : 2015-06-12
Age : 62
Location : Ada, Ohio
Re: Cabin Fever
Before you start putting them together, we found it helpful to draw a line with a Sharpie 2 inches down from what will be the top of your wood. Then you know how far to fill up your boxes. (Just keep in mind that there will be some settling at the beginning.)
I did find that the line faded a lot after a bit in the weather. But it gives you a guideline...
I did find that the line faded a lot after a bit in the weather. But it gives you a guideline...
Re: Cabin Fever
What is called a 2" x 8' board is actually only 1.5" thick x 7.5" tall, so the mark for 6" of MM would be 1 1/2" from the top. If old housing boards are used, they may actually be a full 2" x 8" but that's only with older lumber. We found that out in an old house built about 1915-1920. Of course it was contaminated with lead and asbestos!
Re: Cabin Fever
SR,
I tried to post a response a few days ago and after I had typed out a rather lengthy response I must have hit the wrong button because it just kind of disappeared.
Anyway, looks like everybody else covered it for you. Couple quick points:
You mentioned a B&D drill, I had one years ago and it depends on the "size" of drill, but you may need to drill pilot holes in BOTH the "cap" board and the one you're drilling onto. It takes a little "uumph" to push a 3" screw. The B&D I used to have I think was about 3Volt? or maybe that was 2 3V batteries. Anyway, you'll find out quick if you have enough "uumph", if you do pilot holes in the cap board only and start running the screw and it gets about halfway in and goes "ScEErrrrRch" and tries to snap your wrist as it comes to a sudden halt, just back the screw out, put in a small drill bit and run a pilot hole all the way into the receiving board as well, then try again. Little bit of a pain having to switch between drill bit and screw driver at each joint, but it'll help ease the resistance and you'll get the screw in. Then next time you buy a drill get an 18V Makita, Uggh! UGGGH! Ug! (manly noises ) and then you don't even need the stinking pilot holes. Of course then you have to worry about driving the screw completely through the cap board if you get "lead finger" on the trigger, but that's a much more fun problem . However, pilot holes in part or full are still a good idea either way to help reduce board splitting risk as already mentioned.
8' Long board. If you build a 4'x8' box you could cut another 4'ish section and place it halfway along the 8' length side to brace it halfway. It should work out to be located at a point where your "grid line" should be anyway, so nothing lost planting area wise and you get built in support/cross brace and a built in "grid line" to work off of.
I tried to post a response a few days ago and after I had typed out a rather lengthy response I must have hit the wrong button because it just kind of disappeared.
Anyway, looks like everybody else covered it for you. Couple quick points:
You mentioned a B&D drill, I had one years ago and it depends on the "size" of drill, but you may need to drill pilot holes in BOTH the "cap" board and the one you're drilling onto. It takes a little "uumph" to push a 3" screw. The B&D I used to have I think was about 3Volt? or maybe that was 2 3V batteries. Anyway, you'll find out quick if you have enough "uumph", if you do pilot holes in the cap board only and start running the screw and it gets about halfway in and goes "ScEErrrrRch" and tries to snap your wrist as it comes to a sudden halt, just back the screw out, put in a small drill bit and run a pilot hole all the way into the receiving board as well, then try again. Little bit of a pain having to switch between drill bit and screw driver at each joint, but it'll help ease the resistance and you'll get the screw in. Then next time you buy a drill get an 18V Makita, Uggh! UGGGH! Ug! (manly noises ) and then you don't even need the stinking pilot holes. Of course then you have to worry about driving the screw completely through the cap board if you get "lead finger" on the trigger, but that's a much more fun problem . However, pilot holes in part or full are still a good idea either way to help reduce board splitting risk as already mentioned.
8' Long board. If you build a 4'x8' box you could cut another 4'ish section and place it halfway along the 8' length side to brace it halfway. It should work out to be located at a point where your "grid line" should be anyway, so nothing lost planting area wise and you get built in support/cross brace and a built in "grid line" to work off of.
Zmoore- Posts : 225
Join date : 2015-04-14
Location : Virginia Zone 7a
Re: Cabin Fever
OK, the instruction manual says 20V Max cordless drill. I got it because my cordless weed wacker also uses the same battery. It is a system, LDX120 catalog number. Anyhoo, I think I actually might do a 4x8' box, because I have plenty of yard, and want to simplify mowing and weed wacking....IDK. Or 3x9...I suppose the possibilities are limited by my arm reach, LOL!
Thanks for the advice, I am really looking forward to using it. It is very compact. I am not sure if some men's hands would even fit on the grip!
Thanks for the advice, I am really looking forward to using it. It is very compact. I am not sure if some men's hands would even fit on the grip!
Scorpio Rising- Posts : 8712
Join date : 2015-06-12
Age : 62
Location : Ada, Ohio
Re: Cabin Fever
Ouch, I had that happen to me and I thought how easily I could have broken my wrist!Zmoore wrote: Anyway, you'll find out quick if you have enough "uumph", if you do pilot holes in the cap board only and start running the screw and it gets about halfway in and goes "ScEErrrrRch" and tries to snap your wrist as it comes to a sudden halt . . .
Re: Cabin Fever
Had a break in the winter weather this weekend, so I stepped in and painted my new boxes and top hat for this year. Ain't they cute
So, got my new boxes ready and all supplies for mixing Mel's Mix stored in the garage. Another month and a half and I'll be about ready to go. Actually, I'll probably go ahead and set the boxes out and fill with MM next month and let them "climatize"
Next I need to get my canoe rack built, not garden related, but something I need to do now so it'd not in my way a s a project for when gardening starts.
So, got my new boxes ready and all supplies for mixing Mel's Mix stored in the garage. Another month and a half and I'll be about ready to go. Actually, I'll probably go ahead and set the boxes out and fill with MM next month and let them "climatize"
Next I need to get my canoe rack built, not garden related, but something I need to do now so it'd not in my way a s a project for when gardening starts.
Zmoore- Posts : 225
Join date : 2015-04-14
Location : Virginia Zone 7a
Re: Cabin Fever
very nice...I have some beds I need to redo...just need some motivation.
landarch- Posts : 1152
Join date : 2012-01-22
Location : kansas city
Re: Cabin Fever
Nice! I want to build those exact boxes...at least one. And something for strawberries.
Scorpio Rising- Posts : 8712
Join date : 2015-06-12
Age : 62
Location : Ada, Ohio
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