Tomato problem

HI
I have a problem with spots on my tomato leaf. The plant was hardened off for several before being planted in a wall of water, the WOW was removed after one month. Everything looked fine but now 2 weeks later look at it.
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Kind of looks like sunburn or maybe cold damage. Is the plant making good green new foliage? Are you watering from above or at ground level?

Campn I would rule out sunburn, we have only had four days this month when the Sun ways out. I have not watered my garden since I planted the peas in April but mother nature has watered almost every day. The new growth looks OK, but the whole plant looked OK two weeks ago? Just don't know what is going  on

Boz wrote:Campn I would rule out sunburn, we have only had four days this month when the Sun ways out. I have not watered my garden since I planted the peas in April but mother nature has watered almost every day. The new growth looks OK, but the whole plant looked OK two weeks ago? Just don't know what is going  on

What's the temperature been like?

The average temperature has been close to 20° below normal. However I have not seen a forecast for a night time temperature in the 30's since I removed the WOW. It could be due to the low temperature, just don't know. I just don't want to keep it around if there is a chance that it is diseased.

I think you would be safe to give it a bit more time and I think you will find improvement when the temperature warms up for a week or so. That really doesn't look like a disease sign to me. At I east at this point it doesn't.

Its clear by looking at the temperatures for the past month that this is part of the problem. Tomatoes, eggplant and peppers just dont like to be chilly. http://www.accuweather.com/en/us/loveland-co/80537/may-weather/332151

I have seen some similar damage to when taking off the WOWs. I think it is sunburn, even with cloud cover. The WOW overly protect the plants from the sun so they seem to lose their hardening off. My new growth is all fine though.

The new growth on the tomato looks worse today and I knowingest some of my Kale plants. I took a leaf of the kale to a local garden store and they think it is a fungus. I started spraying with Neem  oil today. I checked the rest of my garden, which has been covered and everything seems OK. I will put some shade cloth over the other tomatoes in WOWs, thanks for the tip Turan.

O dear! I hope Neem solves it then.

I think you misunderstood me. The plants in a WoW are very protected from sun by the plastic and water so they lose their hardening off to direct sun. When you take the WoW off they need a bit of sun protection for a day or so to keep from sunburning.

Good luck!

Boz wrote:HI
I have a problem with spots on my tomato leaf. The plant was hardened off for several before being planted in a wall of water, the WOW was removed after one month. Everything looked fine but now 2 weeks later look at it.
 url=https://servimg.com/view/17320399/43][/url]

What is a ''WOW.  I am not familiar with this term.

A WOW is a Wall-O-Water.  It's basically plastic bags like the box stuffing from companies when they ship stuff.  But their taller & filled w/ water.  Used to keep plants warm.

That teal-colored thing in Boz's first picture is a WOW.

Boz - that looks like sunburn to me...  Or maybe the leaves got wet when watering and the leaves were scalded...

Turan
I think it was my reply that was not clear. I will cover the tomatoes with shade cloth for a couple of days after they come out of the WOW.
The neem oil is not working. The three kale plants keep getting worse and now the peas are affected. This morning I will remove the Kale, Peas and tomato. The dying plants will be hauled as far from the garden as I can get them.

I am very sorry to hear it is spreading. You are having a wet spring as well and maybe things that normally we do not have to deal with are poking up their nasty heads. Does the extension office have any information for you on this?

Boz
I'm jumping in this conversation late.  Has anyone mentioned windy conditions as the cause of the white marks on the leaves ?  Late last spring when I planted my tomatoes I had what looks like the same whitish markings on many tomato leaves.  I remember it was very windy because I spent a lot of time placing multiple panty hose strips on my plants to keep them from blowing over.  The plants all survived and simply grew out of it.  Hope this helps.  Keep my fingers crossed.

Contact the local cooperative extension service for positive ID and other assistance.

+1

I was picking up my young pepper plants today and noted just how much they look like the same damage as on Boz's plants.  I know what happened to these plants.  They had aphids they acquired from my in door citrus tree.  I took them outside and sprayed them heavily with Neem.  I waited for the spray to dry and then put them in the greenhouse.  The tips fried from sunburn even in that protected area and the leaves acquired those white areas.  So I went looking~

Apply neem oil only in indirect light or in the evening to avoid the product burning foliage and allow the preparation to seep into the plant. Also, do not use neem oil in extreme temperatures, either too hot or too cold. Avoid application to plants that are stressed due to drought or over watering. wrote:

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/pesticides/neem-oil-uses.htm

I surveyed my garden today. The thing that stuck me was that all plants that had protection whether it is WOW, top cap or abrigrow fabric are doing fine. Those that had no protection are dead or in rough shape. I guess several weeks of unseasonably cold and wet weather require protection. You live and learn. Thanks for the help.

Suddenly I am seeing something very similar to this in my melons and cukes.
There is a swollen area between veins that dies and drys out, also leaf edges.
I am suspecting a mildew, Angular leaf spot or Downy Mildew, both Pseudomonas sp. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r116101511.html

I do not quite know how much to over react. The problem is that this can get in the soil/ mix and give you trouble for years. It is a reason to think about crop rotations. But I have never grown melons or beans (they also get it) in this spot and hte tomatoes last year showed no such troubles. It can be brought in by unclean seed or unclean compost. It can be treated with copper fungicides, but would I want to do that and risk more getting into the soil? Might be better to pull that side of the greenhouse out and plant a cover crop that is not susptible. I care more about tomatoes than cukes.

Anyone ever used Actinovate

I have a query into our Extension office and will report what they say.

I got the result back on the bean and cuke leaves I brought in to the extension office. No disease. They suspect a micronutrient deficiency, especially boron and suggest I get a soil test done.
I just spread a bit of kelp meal around those plants and will give them a kelp foliar feeding tomorrow.

This follows after a conversation with a friend who is a geologist/rancher here. We were talking about micro-nutrient deficiencies in livestock in this valley. She pointed out that this valley is full of alluvial fill from the surrounding mountains, mostly limestone. It was never an inland sea like so much of the plains area was. Those areas have a much richer mineral makeup. This lack translates into our animals and their manure and the other ingredients in my compost. She brings home buckets of salt from a friends ranch for her sheep. I think this fall I will apply some azomite to my beds. Maybe make available to the sheep as well.