Gravity Feed Irrigation Grid

Where did you pick up your cross tees ??

This is not my post but looks like all the stuff to build it can be bought at a Home Depot or Lowes; although a plumbing supply house may be cheaper. jimmy cee, I asked earlier and was told the size of the pvc is 3/4 inch

I was just sitting down to draw up a plan for a pvc drip system for my raised beds. I've got several rain barrels that I used to fill my sprinkle can for watering last year. This year I thought I'd replace my grids with the pvc drip system.

The burning question on my mind is: did you glue all the joints? I was thinking that with such low pressure on a gravity fed system, you wouldn't really need to glue the joints, plus, if they leak a little, big whoopie! It's still going into the garden!

I'd also like to know if using 1/2" instead of 3/4" would create problems.

Thanks for posting your system, it's inspiring!

I couldn't figure out how to edit my previous post, so here's another one... just in case anyone else ever has the same questions that I had.

I made a prototype watering grid today, and it works perfectly. I used 1/2" pvc, and did not glue any of the joints. It's gravity fed from one of my rain barrels. With a full barrel, I had enough pressure that it was watering the patio, so I had to turn it down a bit.

Dang that's sweet! Where did you get the instructions for the garbage can rain barrel?

CC

Oh that looks great! What size drill bit did you use? How far apart did you space the holes? Would you do something different if you have say six plants in each square? It's nice to see someone else uses the term "big whoopie". I use it also and my kids look at me funny, lol.

B00kemdano wrote:...The burning question on my mind is: did you glue all the joints? I was thinking that with such low pressure on a gravity fed system, you wouldn't really need to glue the joints, plus, if they leak a little, big whoopie! It's still going into the garden!

I'd also like to know if using 1/2" instead of 3/4" would create problems.

Thanks for posting your system, it's inspiring!

Sorry for the long hiatus from the forum. I am just catching up on my thread.

I did not glue the pipes. I was concerned with debris accumulating in the pipes from the 5 gal buckets. I could always pull them and flush the system.

The smaller the pipe diameter, the more pressure is needed to drive the system. I chose 3/4" and it works well. I might try 1/2" on one grid just to see if the system will work. That will lower the cost of the grid. However, make sure the 1/2" crosses are available in your area. I think Lowes only had 3/4" when I was constructing my first one.

Thanks, Cincinnati!

I was a little worried about not having enough pressure in 1/2" pipe, but it seems to be fine for a 6' bed. Maybe because I have fewer holes per square, and my holes are only 1/16". Each square has two holes on the main line, and only one hole at the end of the branch line. That means that the squares on the ends will have a corner that won't get direct water, but I think there will be enough in the square anyway.

I settled on the garbage can rain barrel because I already had a garbage can. I got some ideas from other people's homemade rain barrels (just like Cincinnati's drip system inspired me to make mine), and just winged it with what I had.

If you want more info for how I made rain barrels, feel free to PM me. I don't want to hijack this thread any more than I already have!
-Dano

I'm bumping this because I'm about to embark on a project and am hoping some of you will brainstorm it with me. I found a 350gal IBC tote for cheap on craigslist that I am about to convert to my rain barrel. The barrel will be about 10 ft away from the garden. I want to hook up a gravity irrigation system for the boxes by my fence which will total 28ft long (2x4, 2x12, 2x12). I'm thinking I will need to elevate the water tote at least 3-4ft from the ground to make this work. My question is the type/size of tubing/PVC I should use to route the water: 1) to the first bed 2) through to the last bed and still have enough water pressure to do the job at the end. I had originally thought about using a soaker hose, but think that won't be able to handle the flow distance as well as PVC. There is no chance of being able to get a pump for pressurizing it this year, so I really want to make the gravitational feed work if possible.

I am not very architecturally inclined, so any ideas are welcomed!

I can't help with the irrigation part, but I wanted to make sure you're aware that your container will be over 2800 pounds when full. If you're going to make some kind of structure to elevate it, please be careful.

Thanks Boffer! I was a little surprised with how big it is. We picked it up tonight and found that the best place to put it is actually about 4ft from the garden and we will use the PVC piping to run along the fence and feed the rain water to the water tote which should be a win-win to reserve that water pressure for the irrigation. I think we will try putting it up on 2-3 layers of leveled cinder blocks (using at least 6 at each level). I'm also going to wrap it in 6mil black plastic to prevent algae and get the filtration screens in place before putting it to work. Fingers crossed that we will also be able to use this to help fill the above ground pool.

Hoping I can make this work well for us and really save on our water bill while getting some excellent garden production. I will be sure to take pics of this adventure once we get it going.

I had acquired one of those tanks last year, with the same idea. I put a 4-way garden hose valve on it to control (currently) 4 lines. (Not to get away from the PVC grid subject) I got a great deal on some 1/2" and 3/4" drip line hose -- already had 1/4" emitter hoses every 12" - 18" (I think). In investigating how to use them for what I've got going on -- a big thing to calculate is -- how much does the grid/emitters you are using "flow out" compared to how much is "flowing from/through-supply". I hadn't tested these hoses yet for their flow - but a test I did with the garden hose was 1 gal per min. So, I'm looking into zoning what get's watered - instead of trying to water everything at once... If the hoses I have test the same -- I'll be looking at limiting one area that has an output of 60 gph (which with what I have is 60 emitters). And to make a comment of a one of the previous posts --- a soaker hose does not work well with my gravity fed system (took two days to drain out 120 gal - and it wasn't evenly watered afterward)

Lemonie wrote: I had originally thought about using a soaker hose, but think that won't be able to handle the flow distance as well as PVC.

I am not mechanically inclined either -- but when I tried a soaker hose on my IBC tank - since there was no pressure (or very little) - not enough for it to work... at least, that was what happened to me.

Lemonie wrote:I'm bumping this because I'm about to embark on a project and am hoping some of you will brainstorm it with me. I found a 350gal IBC tote for cheap on craigslist that I am about to convert to my rain barrel. The barrel will be about 10 ft away from the garden. I want to hook up a gravity irrigation system for the boxes by my fence which will total 28ft long (2x4, 2x12, 2x12). I'm thinking I will need to elvate the water tote at least 3-4ft from the ground to make this work. My question is the type/size of tubing/PVC I should use to route the water: 1) to the first bed 2) through to the last bed and still have enough water pressure to do the job at the end. I had originally thought about using a soaker hose, but think that won't be able to handle the flow distance as well as PVC. There is no chance of being able to get a pump for pressurizing it this year, so I really want to make the gravitational feed work if possible
I am not very architecturally inclined, so any ideas are welcomed!

Lemonie,
How did your system work?  Any pics?
Madge

The IBC I have has a 2" valve.  I got a coupler, male threaded to barbed connector and put on a 2" water line (part of the water hose purchase I made recently).  



Also part of the purchase was 3/4" line.  So I got a 3/4" coupler, drilled a hole in the 2" line, and threaded in the coupler with some silicon sealant.  I have three - but testing with one at the moment.  Worked great.  Had nice pressure for the part I was watering (about 20' away)



Here is part of what it was going to (also was run to a section of strawberries)




Work in progress -- planning on changing part of the 2" section coming off the IBC (putting in a T, and running 2" to another section of the garden), and changing the hoses in the garden to run in a row instead of around like it is at the moment.  I was just testing to see how it worked....

Nice work! Could you please list the parts necessary to build this grid/irrigation system? I am not too mechanical, lol. I see the 3/4 in PVC, and the 4-way connectors, and end caps; but not the parts for connecting the hose to the bucket and grid. Also, can the hose be 1/2 in? How long do you cut the PVC pieces? I am trying to make a 4 x 4 box. Thanks

Another question... You talk about putting 3 holes per PVC section. In the sections that border 2 squares, you are putting 3 holes 25 degrees off top center on both sides, right?

For nurzemjd

[quote="Cincinnati"]

CharlesB wrote: What is the fitting called that you used on the bucket that connects to the hose and where did you pick it up?

I bought all the fittings at Lowes. Most are in the section with landscape irrigation system components. The others are in plumbing.

The bucket take-off consists of:

2" plastic Nipple
Two O-Rings
Two Fender washers
Two Faucet Retaining Nuts
PVC Pipe to Male hose thread fitting

CharlesB wrote:What fitting is used to connect the hose to the PVC grid?

PVC pipe to Female Hose fitting

Cincinnati, what a interesting design.  I am glad you shared your neat idea with us.  Have you had any problem with the crop growing over the pipe and disrupting the water flow?
Thanks,
Steve

Digging up an old topic here...

I am about to build one of these systems for my new (first) SFG...I have two questions:

1) I have an odd shaped bed...it is 15 feet long and two feet wide...do you think there would be an issue with the water reaching all of the pipe and water everything relatively evenly? If I put the connector in the middle of the bed, with 7 1/2 feet to each side, would that be a better idea than putting the connector at the end?

2) Has anyone (hopefully the OP sees this!) had any issue with a system like this watering squares with many plants in them (carrots/radishes/beets/etc)? Or does the water cover enough area that you don't need to worry about it?

Help and opinions are greatly appreciated!

I've read some of the replies, and see a lot of people have some concerns about head pressure and PVC pipe size.
 
I've worked as an engineer in the pump and valve field, and here are a few things I've learned:
 
1. The orifice flow rate needs to be determined, and that can be done with a test set up. One needs to make a system, and place the supply at the height to get the water to be projected the required distance from the orifice. Then place a container under the orifice and measure how much water comes out of the orifice in a minute, this is the flow rate in ounces or gallons per minute per orifice at head pressure, as long as head pressure is constant, and that’s not the case in a gravity feed system, the head pressure will change approximately 12 inches as the 5 gallon bucket drains out, so you may need to place it a little higher than what you may want to, and add a valve between your system and the supply tank to throttle the supply.
 
2. Pipe size effects how many orifices can be supplied. ½” pipe has an I.D. of .622” which equates to an area of .304 Sq.In.. The .040” holes have an area of .0012 Sq.In.. That means ½” pipe can handle 253  - .040 diameter orifices regardless of pressure as long as there is enough water to supply them all with water at their flow rate at a certain head pressure.
 
3. Now to get the flow rate required for your system multiply how many orifices are in the pipe by the flow rate at the required head pressure, and that will give you how many GPM your system will require. Example (60) - .040” diameter orifices with a required flow rate of 4 ozs/minute at 24 inches of head to spray 6 inches from the pipe will require 240 ounces per minute of water, or almost 2 gallons per minute.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Paul, that will eliminate some frustrating experimentation.   

Excellent Information thank you