Rhizobia Innoculent for Peas and Beans?

jewlz2121 7/24/2013, 4:37 pm

I read in ANSFG Mel suggests using a soil innoculent for peas and beans. Do you use? Why or why not? I grew beans this year for the first time without innoculent. They seemed to do fine until the beetles got a hold of them. I am planning on trying fall peas, so I was curious if I should try innoculent this time around.

**camprn** 7/24/2013, 5:13 pm

If it is a new bed, I suggest the inoculant. If you have successfully grown beans in the bed before you probably have the needed bacteria already in the bed and most likely you won't need inoculant.

colleenkgallagher 7/25/2013, 8:07 pm

I learned this lesson too late. My beans did not turn out good at all. I am planning on planting a fall bean crop though so I will find this stuff to put on my garden.

Thanks for the help.

boffer 7/25/2013, 10:17 pm

jewlz2121 wrote:I read in ANSFG Mel suggests using a soil innoculent for peas and beans. Do you use? Why or why not? I grew beans this year for the first time without innoculent. They seemed to do fine until the beetles got a hold of them. I am planning on trying fall peas, so I was curious if I should try innoculent this time around.

Here's some more info about inoculants.
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t9960-inoculation-yea-or-nay

Last year, when we had this discussion, Plantoid (who lives in England) mentioned that he had never heard of inoculants in his many years of gardening. He looked around, and couldn't find a source for them in Great Britain. Apparently, Brits have been growing legumes for a long time without using inoculants.

**camprn** 7/25/2013, 10:19 pm

boffer wrote:
jewlz2121 wrote:I read in ANSFG Mel suggests using a soil innoculent for peas and beans. Do you use? Why or why not? I grew beans this year for the first time without innoculent. They seemed to do fine until the beetles got a hold of them. I am planning on trying fall peas, so I was curious if I should try innoculent this time around.

Here's some more info about inoculants.
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t9960-inoculation-yea-or-nay

Last year, when we had this discussion, Plantoid (who lives in England) mentioned that he had never heard of inoculants in his many years of gardening. He looked around, and couldn't find a source for them in Great Britain. Apparently, Brits have been growing legumes for a long time without using inoculants.

In the dirt. Wink

murarrie25 7/25/2013, 10:43 pm

When compost is produced in fast hot process and most of the bacteria is killed do they have a process to introduce good bacteria back into the compost before any nasty bacteria take over sale of pro biotic fertilizer is a growing .

boffer 7/25/2013, 10:48 pm

Compost teas, made from quality compost, would be one way to get the good bacteria going again in sterilized compost.

**llama momma** 7/26/2013, 4:21 am

Jewls
This 4x8 bed is 3 yrs old and the dragons tongue beans and KY bush beans were not inoculated. They were planted in staggered squares. There is at least a dozen other things growing in the bed. Hard to see it though. Will not plant as many beans next time around.

Rhizobia Innoculent for Peas and Beans? Sam_1817

colleenkgallagher 7/26/2013, 4:33 pm

I'm too stubborn to give up on the beans, so I ordered a Rhizobia Innoculant from Amazon and I will replant my beans when it gets here.

My Pepper plants did not produce either. Is this from the same problem. My tomatoes are coming on but the skins are busting. What's going on?

I'm a little frustrated but this is my first year to try this kind of gardening, so I realize I have a lot to learn. study

**sanderson** 7/26/2013, 5:25 pm

Colleen, First year has a big learning curve, This from another Newbie. Smile

**llama momma** 7/26/2013, 6:48 pm

colleenkgallagher wrote: My tomatoes are coming on but the skins are busting. What's going on?

I've heard one explanation that it can be caused by the skin growing slower than the insides. Could it possibly be from excess rain or too much nurturing (watering on your part)? Just throwing it out there for you to think about. I'm still learning so much myself over the past 3 years. Everything I learn leads to new questions.

murarrie25 7/26/2013, 7:53 pm

If you look at a guide for farmers to grow tomatoes Extra calcium as gypsum before planting 3 to 6 ounces per square yard and extra calcium in the flowering stage calcium is essential to prevent blossom end rot..
Water seems to be important not letting dry out or not over watering .Growing in a raised bed is probably an advantage.

**camprn** 7/26/2013, 9:02 pm

murarrie25 wrote:If you look at a guide for farmers to grow tomatoes Extra calcium as gypsum before planting 3 to 6 ounces per square yard and extra calcium in the flowering stage calcium is essential to prevent blossom end rot..
Water seems to be important not letting dry out or not over watering .Growing in a raised bed is probably an advantage.

Although it is true that calcium and magnesium as well as a proper pH if essential for avoiding BER, amendments are typically not recommended by Mel Bartholomew for the Square Foot Garden. Now if you are seeing symptoms of troubles, the gardener should act and amend per need.

Inconsistent watering is often another cause of BER and splitting tomato fruit. Peppers are similar to tomatoes in that they will develop bloom in optimal temperatures. Out of that range and the plant will not develop bloom and will abort bloom.

Inoculants are only going to help legume plants develop nodes that will fix nitrogen. It will not help pepper plants nor tomatoes.

.

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