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Pre-Filling a 30" Raised Bed

PK,  What OhioGardener wrote.

Fill the lower part with inert top soil or washed sand. You only need 6-7" of the Mel's Mix.  Doubling it up is twice as expensive, both to originally make and then to amend every year.  It does not work any better than 6-7" of properly made and annually amended with composts MM.

Regarding options #2 and 3, your beds are already 30" tall.  That is a heck of a lot of weight of moist fill for any type of bottom for the bed.  If the day comes that you want to make table top beds raised on cinderblocks, 3/4" plywood lasts about 5-8 years.  Drill 1/2" holes per square foot.  Support every 2' in both directions.  Use 2"x8" lumber for the bed sides which is enough for 6-7" of Mel's Mix plus some straw mulch.

Some pics of TT beds.

Mine


Mine, overkill with 1" holes.


Pennsylvania SFG gardener.


Oregon SFG gardener.





Each child got to choose the paint color for these raised beds made with cement pans.

Best choice of pot to plant my seedling

Dani, I start seedlings in individual plastic cups (2 1/4" xx 2 1/4" x 3 1/4") so I don't have to up pot.  They go directly into the beds as soon as the weather cooperates.  I've been using the same cups since March 2013, just washing and drying for storage, so the investment was worth it.  I also use a few repurposed 6-packs for identical seedlings like 6 cucumbers.  The whole 6-pack is gently emptied for planting in a bed.

As far as leggedness, I find having the light 2" above the new sprout is the best way to prevent it.  I've never used a fan, but on normal years, I carry the trays outside every day the weather is 60*F or more.  This year, my arm is interfering with everything and my husband has to do anything heavy or complicated.

Photo from Saturday - their first and only day outside due to cold/rain this March.  Not that I'm complaining because California needs the water.  Some plants are nice and compact and a few later ones are leggy.  It is what it is this year.



Older photo showing staging for major seedling.  The cups are in seed trays for watering and carrying outdoors and indoors weather allowing.  I use MM as seed mix.  I steam bake pans of MM. Every single cup is labeled and 6 packs are identical plants so only 1 plastic label is needed. I wash and dry for storage and put them into the seed packs for the next year. I use a #2 pencil and mechanical eraser so I can change labels when I change varieties.

Soaking Seeds for Better Germination

OhioGardener wrote:I used identical compost for both the soaked an the unsoaked seeds for testing, with the only difference being watering the soaked seeds compost with the leftover EM solution after planting.

Here's round #2 of testing. Soaking the seeds and planting without pouring the extra EM-1 solution over the seeds once they are sowed in the pots. Not soaking the seeds but pouring EM-1 solution over the seeded pots. ??

Hello from Alameda, CA

theDefeatedTech wrote:Thanks!  Yeah I made two major mistakes on my Mel's mix.  1. I didn't count for expansion of peat moss so now I'm peat heavy and the top tends to crust over a lot and I have some roll off when watering.  2. I used a local compost that I later found out was composted from local city green bins.    

Sometimes, one can luck out and the local green waste compost is good.

So now I'm trying to correct the issue with adding compost and COARSE vermiculite (another mistake I made) to even out the ratio.

Good.

The soil has settled so I have some extra space. For the Mel's Mix this is what I have or is on the way:

1. Coast of Maine Quoddy Blend Organic Lobster Compost
2. Buildasoil Colorado Pinto Bean Compost
3. Oly Mountain Fish Compost
4. Malibu Compost Bu’s Blend Biodynamic Compost

Which of these were you able to source locally here in CA?  I have had a heck of a hard time finding any more than 3 real composts.  #2, 3 and 4 are good.  Coast of Maine, #1, often has a fair amount of peat moss which will throw off the 3-way ratio in Mel's Mix.

5. Vermicompost from my friend's backyard

Always good.  Worm castings are not a compost and yet it can be used as one of the composts in the blend.  Because it's rich, and expensive for the volume, limit it to 5-10% of the total composts.[/quote]

6??. I have an all-organic mushroom compost I got locally here in Alameda.  I've heard these are sterilized before mushrooms are grown with it so there isn't much microbiology.  Then the mushrooms take a lot of the nutrients.  So I'm not sure if this is helpful.  But there is a lot of organic matter and lots of mycelium and it has great texture.

It would have been fine to use as is.  Organic matter with great texture sound perfect. (as long as they didn't add peat moss at time of packaging.)

What I did is add some used coffee grounds I've been saving and also watered in some Mikrobs inoculant.  Then I threw some red wigglers in to see if they can eat through the mushroom substrate and the coffee grounds.  Is it worth it?  I already have 5 so this would be a sixth.  But given my previous failure I want to make sure I get as diverse compost as possible.

You will need to let it compost, or worm age it, for a while to break down the coffee grounds.

Why are my Onions falling over?

OhioGardener wrote:

MrBooker wrote: I read your post to her and she said, "See, I told you so. You should listen to me".................   Of course, she's RIGHT.  (as always) 

Rule #1:  The wife is always right!
Rule #2:  If you think the wife is wrong, see Rule #1.

New compost bins X3

As OG mentioned, combine the piles into bin one.  You want the raw pile a solid cube 3' high minimum in order to generate heat.  Make sure it's really moist, lighting the fire, so to speak.  Buy a 20*F compost thermometer so you can check the interior heat.  140-160*F is lift off.  When it gets hot, turn into bin #2.  When that heats up, turn it back to #1.  And, so on.

I bought an auger for our drill, and it about broke my arm when it got stuck.  I then went to the gold standard and bought a manure fork at Home Depot.    

Recommendation:  To make it easier for you to turn from one bin to the other, I think you should cut the front posts off to flush or near flush.

Now, to totally make your day, you need a removable front for each bin, to keep the contents in.  Something like this front.  [I modified the lining over the years, but the front with removable slats was from the get go.]  

Expand your ingredient search beyond leaves (at this time of the year). Produce and farmer market culls, horse manure, stable bedding straw waste, raw or boiled shrimp shells for trace minerals from the gulf, moldy alfalfa or oat hay that can't be fed to the animals, cotton hulls, produce processing plant waste, etc.

Square Foot Garden #2 and Compost

A 3-bin set up is the best. Ignore the signs. Fill #1 to the top and turn the hot compost back and forth between #1 and #2. When the compost is ready to use, it goes into #3.


I was stuck with a single bin, which meant I had to take everything out and put it back in to turn it.

Mark's first SFG

I bought my tall markers at Home Depot. I also have a huge collection of 4" and 5" small plastic markers for the seed cups. I have found that the old yellow #2 pencil on the "rough" side of both types of the markers is the only one that lasts. I wash mine after use (yes, the bottoms are permanently MM stained), and stick the small ones back in their seed packets.

Mark's first SFG

markqz wrote:. . Here you can see that Mel's mix is so powerful that marigolds and vegetables popped up over night: . . . Or maybe I transplanted them from SFG #2. Maybe.

Vermiculite (size/grade) question

I just looked at my bag of vermiculite. Therm-o-rock #2 coarse grade. The #3 is medium grade. So you can see the labeling is different for each company, this one being in Arizona.

Vermiculite (size/grade) question

CherylLun, You may have Medium or Fine if the vermiculite is the size of a broken-off piece of #2 pencil lead. Coarse is the best for Mel's Mix. I'll try to take a photo tomorrow of coarse vermiculite in my hand. Meanwhile, contract your supplier to discuss your concern that it is too fine to be coarse. The term "agriculture grade" doesn't mean anything regarding the size.

Grade 3 is what you would want from this company. https://www.uline.com/BL_3801/Vermiculite?keywords=Vermiculite

Or, this product from Amazon with free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Vermiculite-cubic-foot-bag/dp/B015RXB9HW/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1UO5FPJULI21Q&keywords=vermiculite&qid=1569138270&s=gateway&sprefix=vermicu%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-11

The SFG Journey-Johnson Su Bioreactor for composting, No turning

I about hurt myself this evening when watering the J-Su bin wearing some slip-on bedroom slippers.  I have a layer of straw mulch on the surface to slow evaporation.  Well, I'm up next to it, watering with the hose wand, when a mouse jumps up out of the straw and runs in my direction.   I jumped backwards, off a 4" ledge, losing both slippers and almost fell down.  #2 reason to end my illustrious carrier of making compost.  

Note: The core is still warm at 140*F with 5" in from the sides at 122*F.

Gardening Should Be Fun

Why is SFG better than row gardening #2? "I don't want to hoe weeds." - Mel Bartholomew

Hi from Colorado! Qs about mapping squares

Hi Christy, Welcome to the Forum from California!

The first year should be about learning how each variety grows. Do plant vining and tall tomatoes on the north or west trellised side. Short stuff on the south or east side. Summer squash in the southern corners so they can spread out over the side of the bed. As far as crop rotation, I have no choice as to where I plant the summer peppers each year, or tall vining winter squash, cucumbers, cantaloupe, and beans. While it is a good thing to rotate beds, it has worked out okay for me to NOT rotate. Being in zone 9A, I have summer crops and winter crops with only a few small things like lettuce and radishes where I will harvest, then add more compost and plant another seed in the same spot. You will get the swing of things and each year you will be more and more comfortable with your SFG.

Having more than one bed in the garden area can help with crop rotation. Plants you grew in Bed #1 can be grown in Bed #2 next year. Etc.

When you get your plot plan sketched and penciled in, you can post it here and folks will help if there is anything critical. We love photos so don't be shy!

Math Question

This is for those who like math.

Question #1:

I have 6.75 cubic feet of homemade compost.  I have 150 sq. ft. that will need 2" of compost in the next few months.  How much compost will I need to make to top all of the 150 squares?

Question #2:

The tumbler holds 80 gallons which results in about half that amount of usable compost. How many batches will I have to make to have enough compost for the above bed amending?

California - What are you doing this month?

Teaser #2:

Compost Heaps

A third bin is also great. Turn #2 into #3. Turn #1 into #2. Repeat going backwards. Or a third bin for finished compost.

Have you started looking for bagged composts in case you need to supplement? Have you looked at this thread? https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t21089-recommended-store-bought-compost?highlight=compost

California - What are you doing this month?

Ever write a reply, complete with photos, and forget to send or save draft?  So here goes another try.

I emptied Tumbler batch #3 this evening after 21 days and I am very happy.  It smells good and the only lumps are actual horse pucks that didn't break up.  Only 101*F at 6:30*F.  Tumbler batch #4 will be built tomorrow after Ken mows the new bedding straw and I cut up five 5-gallon buckets of tonight's haul of culls from the Farmers' Market.  I've already done the Starbuck's puck dance.    Expected 104*F tomorrow.    


Compare to lumpy #2 after 35 days.

Tips for compost tumbler

trolleydriver wrote:And if that does not work this thing may find itself advertised on kijiji.

 I know how you feel.  My Tumbler #1 stuff that was a bust is stored in the holey 33-gallon can.  Just siting there. I hope #4 turns out as good as lumpy #2 and less-lumpy #3.

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

Bin #2 (SoilSaver) - Temps for 3 days - 134, 146, 147F - nice!

Bin #3 (EnviroCycle) - Remains steady with 3 day temps of 103, 107, 106F.

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

#2 is really taking off!

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

Bin #2 (plastic SoilSaver) has been reloaded with the second batch for 2017. Temperature after loading was 70F on Friday July 14. Then yesterday it was up to 110F and today it's at 132F.

Bin #3 (EnviroCycle tumbler) continues to hover around 100F with temps of 102, 100 and 102 over the last three readings.

Outside temperature at the time of the readings was 77F.

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

For June 7 we have Bin #1 at 83F (up slightly) and Bin #2 at 74F (down again).

I have decided to halt temperature readings in Bin #2 and will screen the contents. It may be too soon but we will see.  The results of screening will be shown in photos in the "Third Year SFG in Canada" thread.

https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t21190p275-third-year-sfg-in-canada

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

Very little change over the past 24 hours.  Bin #1 - 80F and Bin #2 - 78F.

The weather today is miserable, cool, rainy, windy and a temperature of only 52F.

TrolleyDriver's Compost Thermometer

June 5,  Bin #1 - 78F and Bin #2 - 81F.