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Cleaning and whitewashing of fruit tree trunks
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Cleaning and whitewashing of fruit tree trunks
I clean bark in September only on old trees. Young fruit ones do not need this procedure. I want to note that the bark peels off more easily after a long rain - it swells and becomes malleable.
I spread a dense sheet of tarpaulin under the tree. You can use other materials - wrap, roofing, burlap. It is necessary to ensure a good fit of the panel to the trunk without gaps. Moreover, the radius of the coating should be a meter and a half from the barrel. I use a special plastic scraper for cleaning. A metal spatula or wire brush for metal is also suitable for this purpose. I tear off the bark from top to bottom in small sections. In the process, you need to carefully monitor so that the living layer is not damaged, otherwise the tree will hurt. After all the old bark is removed, I collect the cleanings from the litter and burn them.
The main goal of whitewashing trunks is to protect trees from frost and sunburn, as well as prevention against wintering pests and pores of fungi.
Most likely is the occurrence of frost pits from January to the end of March. The temperature difference at night and day during this period can be up to 10 degrees. As a result, cracks appear in the cortex. At first they are small, but expand and deepen very quickly. Over time, the bark dies and exfoliates. If the trunk is hit by frost holes in a ring or over a large area, there is a high risk of infection of the tree with black cancer. In this case, the tree withers and dies over time. On the sunny and shadow side of the trunk in the early spring, temperature differences also have a large range (up to 15 degrees). As a result of this, untreated trunks and branches often cause sunburn. Young and weakened trees in the garden are most prone to burns. To protect trees from frost, I spend whitewashing trunks in the fall - in October-November. I’ll orient myself on the weather - I need to be in time before the onset of steady frost. If the trees are whitened too early (in September), the entire protective layer will be washed away by autumn rains. In late February or early March, I update the whitewash so that it serves as a reliable protection against the bright spring sun. With the first heat, harmful insects wintering on the trunk begin to wake up - a layer of whitewashing will help to cope with them.
I spread a dense sheet of tarpaulin under the tree. You can use other materials - wrap, roofing, burlap. It is necessary to ensure a good fit of the panel to the trunk without gaps. Moreover, the radius of the coating should be a meter and a half from the barrel. I use a special plastic scraper for cleaning. A metal spatula or wire brush for metal is also suitable for this purpose. I tear off the bark from top to bottom in small sections. In the process, you need to carefully monitor so that the living layer is not damaged, otherwise the tree will hurt. After all the old bark is removed, I collect the cleanings from the litter and burn them.
The main goal of whitewashing trunks is to protect trees from frost and sunburn, as well as prevention against wintering pests and pores of fungi.
Most likely is the occurrence of frost pits from January to the end of March. The temperature difference at night and day during this period can be up to 10 degrees. As a result, cracks appear in the cortex. At first they are small, but expand and deepen very quickly. Over time, the bark dies and exfoliates. If the trunk is hit by frost holes in a ring or over a large area, there is a high risk of infection of the tree with black cancer. In this case, the tree withers and dies over time. On the sunny and shadow side of the trunk in the early spring, temperature differences also have a large range (up to 15 degrees). As a result of this, untreated trunks and branches often cause sunburn. Young and weakened trees in the garden are most prone to burns. To protect trees from frost, I spend whitewashing trunks in the fall - in October-November. I’ll orient myself on the weather - I need to be in time before the onset of steady frost. If the trees are whitened too early (in September), the entire protective layer will be washed away by autumn rains. In late February or early March, I update the whitewash so that it serves as a reliable protection against the bright spring sun. With the first heat, harmful insects wintering on the trunk begin to wake up - a layer of whitewashing will help to cope with them.
Kay Burton- Posts : 13
Join date : 2020-03-23
Age : 40
Location : Washington
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