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Mini Greenhouse Cattle Panels

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RoOsTeR
Goosegirl
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Chopper
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CarolynPhillips
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Mini Greenhouse Cattle Panels Empty Mini Greenhouse Cattle Panels

Post  CarolynPhillips 10/20/2010, 11:08 am

For those who want a mini greenhouse or something bigger than a SFG cold frame--
We been talking about cattle panel Arbors and Arched trellises and I came across
cattle panel greenhouses.
These are easy quick ideas for a quick and workable greenhouse.

http://www.google.com/images?q=cattle+panel+greenhouse&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=DwS_TKTpHYG0lQfsoPnhBw&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDkQsAQwAg&biw=1280&bih=798
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Post  acara 10/20/2010, 11:29 am

As I'm in FL, a hoop-house is probably n/a for me, but,

Assuming from a cost perspective cattle panel > rebar, pvc, conduit & assuming you don't use the cattle panel for vining while covered ....why would this be a viable design?

More attachment points for the cover? holds "snow weight" better, uncover and use as trellis later in year?

Just curious (a.k.a. ignorant)
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Post  CarolynPhillips 10/20/2010, 11:47 am

I guess each individual will have to decide for themselves if it is a viable design----and its just ideas---nothing concrete. They can make it into what ever they wish. It doesn't have to have wood framed ends.....it doesn't have to be just like the pictures....
Some people are not able to get regular greenhouse hoops. Maybe somebody doesn't like PVC. Maybe somebody doesn't like cattle panels. Maybe somebody doesn't like greenhouses. I don't know. But maybe they will have fun looking at pictures and come up with their own ideas. Lots of people must of thought it was a viable design cause they did it.
Just call me stupid for posting the picture ideas cause I have no idea why it could be a viable design or why it is not a viable design.

Edited to ADD
Maybe they already have the supplies on hand so they don't have to spend more money to make something different.
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Post  boffer 10/20/2010, 12:17 pm

I like looking at collections like that. My first thought was that it's a fast, easy way to get some shelter, for many different purposes. But then, I've always been enamored by the Quonset hut concept.
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Post  acara 10/20/2010, 12:45 pm

Hey ... "just because" is good enough for me.

I'm just the ignorant sod who's never built a hoop house .... so I was wondering if there were "design considerations" I wasn't aware of ??

Definately not a good judge of "goodness" or "badness" on "hoophouses" ..... but I'm probably the most curious fellow on the forum What a Face
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Post  Aub 10/20/2010, 3:52 pm

I think it looks fantastic! I would like to have something like that in my garden. I emailed the link to my hubby. Hint, hint, nudge, nudge!
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Post  Chopper 10/20/2010, 4:06 pm

I am in California and really have little need for a greenhouse but I could not help but be impressed and oddly excited. Something about a the simple, effective design. But I am DEFINITELY doing the cattle panel arbor next spring.
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Post  Aub 10/20/2010, 4:09 pm

Chopper wrote: But I am DEFINITELY doing the cattle panel arbor next spring.

Good Plan!!
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Post  milaneyjane 10/20/2010, 8:48 pm

OMG!!!! TOTALLY am going to do one of these! I will convert one of my arches to a greenhouse at the beginning of the season! Thanks for posting. Very Happy
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Post  janezee 11/14/2011, 2:51 am

Looking into the archives on greenhouses, I came across this from last year. Did anyone do it?
Looks doable, since a new feed and grain with cattle panels ($30ea.) just opened 1 mile away!

According to a site on Dave's Garden, a 14' space between ends would give a mid-height of 3.5'; 12'w-4.83'm.h.; 10'-5.63'm.h.; 8'-6.13'm.h.; and 6'-6.63'm.h.

I'm thinking of a 10' span, with 3-2x8' long beds inside of two panels bent over. Velcro or zippered flaps on the ends of the aisles. Greenhouse plastic over the tops with roll-up sides on 2x4's, tomatoes in the middle for the first year, cukes on the south, and peas on the north. Tomatoes strung up from pole down the center.

Dreamin' of spring.......and maybe ripe tomatoes...... sawing logs cherry hungry sawing logs
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Post  Goosegirl 11/14/2011, 7:46 am

I can't believe I missed this thread in my lurkings! Now, to figure out how to build one of these without alerting Hubby! rofl Think he'll notice it sprouting up in the back yard?
GG
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Post  RoOsTeR 11/14/2011, 7:50 am

Think he'll notice it sprouting up in the back yard?

Ehhh. Doubtful...my wife on the other hand tongue

Very, very, tempting... Cool

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Post  Rosey 12/28/2011, 3:27 pm

Thanks for this! A solution to my problems of a large backyard with virtually nothing in it and lots to do to plan and start gardening. Definitely want to start with one of these!
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Post  plantoid 12/28/2011, 4:59 pm

I forsee there may be a problem in using the galvanized welded mesh panels and other things for hoops that touch the covering.

I used to have a galvanized " steel framed hoop house as you guys call my old commercial poly tunnel .

When it got hot inside the tunnel the hoops got hot and it wasn't long before it started to damage the UV resistant polyethene covering which was secured at the sides by using a trench filed with sand on the surplus .

After losing my second cover & after lots of cursing , I realised that the hot bars were almost melting the covers .... in the end I had to use a special one sided adhesive high density insulating foam tape that had a super slipery surface directly on the point of contact where the surface that met with the cover was so that the covers kept fairly cool and could slide around as the temperatures and wind changed.
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Post  plantoid 12/28/2011, 5:01 pm

Goosegirl wrote:I can't believe I missed this thread in my lurkings! Now, to figure out how to build one of these without alerting Hubby! rofl Think he'll notice it sprouting up in the back yard?
GG

GG tell him , " It's a man cupboard for rainy days " . Wink
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Post  dsfin 12/29/2011, 6:53 am

Great post and pictures, CarolynP!!!! I have not seen cattle panel used before as the main material to construct small DIY mini greenhouses. I can see it working well just like some of the more common materials of construction (e.g., pvc & conduit) for building small Quonset hut style greenhouses. More options/choices to build with is always a good thing. The Arbors and Arched Trellises pictured I thought were awesome!

I appreciated Acara's curiosity about the design though (comparison of cost, strength, advantages/disadvantages, etc.), just from a informational perspective. I'm from the Pacific North West. So being from a more northern climate, choice of material can be an important factor. I worked for a commercial greenhouse grower many many years ago and have seen first hand what a heavy & very wet PNW snow fall can do to a light weight unheated greenhouse. Anyone considering a design for their greenhouse will have to take into account the requirements based on their location.

Boffer is right about the Quonset hut concept for greenhouses. They are economical & easy to construct compared to other greenhouse designs. There are other designs which are stronger, but with that, they are also more expensive. If there is one disadvantage of a Quonset style greenhouse, it is that the curved roof design makes it difficult if not impossible to have a ridge vent system (not required, but nice to have)! A ridge vent along with side vents the length of the GH is a very effective design for passive venting/cooling.

@janezee - For whatever span you might choose for your greenhouse, growing Tomatoes in a 2'x8' SFG box down the center (lengthwise) would create a shade problem for whatever you might grow on the north side (peas?). You could compensate for that with an east-west orientation of the greenhouse to minimize the shading effect. But with that orientation you also have the disadvantage of not taking full advantage of available light and thermal collection of heat a north-south oriented greenhouse would provide. As you know, abundant & high light quality in the PNW is sometimes hard to come by!!! Argh!! Well, at least you still have plenty of time to figure out your design and crop selection before spring. I wouldn't let a little challenge like that hold you back, though. Go for it!!!

@plantoid - I've never seen heat as a problem for poly covering on metal hoops before. Rubbing/chaffing of the poly on metal hoops can contribute to failure eventually. But then the poly installs I've seen have always been dual layers inflated for insulation effect. When there are dual layers inflated, the outer top layer (usually 6mil.) along with the air inflated gap pretty much buffets the effect of wind, etc. and protects the inner bottom layer of poly (usually 4mil.) which has contact with the metal hoops. Did your GH have just one layer of poly? Maybe that's why heat contributed to the eventual failure? Just guessing. The insulating foam tape idea sounds like it was a good work around. And would also be for an SFG box with metal hoops or cattle panels fitted with a single layer of poly, I would think.
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Post  rod champion 12/29/2011, 9:19 am

I thought it was good to look at. I don't have grrenhouse and may won't one someday.

Ideas are fun to look at.
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Post  plantoid 12/29/2011, 7:31 pm

Dsfin,
Yes my tunnel was a single skin on galvanized steel hoops and stretcher bars.

As I live in the UK I'm a wee bit confused when you refer to the thickness of the covers as 6 mil ..is that supposed to be something other than millimetres ....which I know as abbreviated to mil or mm.......to me 6 mil / mm is nearly 1/4 of an inch thick .

or
Is that a bubble wrap type double skin width /thickness when inflated?
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Post  boffer 12/29/2011, 7:48 pm

6 mils = 0.006 inches

is about the thickest plastic sold here at retail for general purposes. It's considered to be 'contractor' grade and is sometimes spec'd by building departments to be used for things like vapor barriers over earth in crawl spaces. It comes in either a milky white with light transmission of about 60%, or in your basic black for evening wear.

Thickness goes down from there, 2 and 4 mil are common. Some of the thinnest is called 'painter's plastic'; it's in the 0.8 mil range. It's similar to the bags our clothes are returned in from the dry cleaners.

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Post  plantoid 12/29/2011, 8:01 pm

boffer wrote:6 mils = 0.006 inches

is about the thickest plastic sold here at retail for general purposes. It's considered to be 'contractor' grade and is sometimes spec'd by building departments to be used for things like vapor barriers over earth in crawl spaces. It comes in either a milky white with light transmission of about 60%, or in your basic black for evening wear.

Thickness goes down from there, 2 and 4 mil are common. Some of the thinnest is called 'painter's plastic'; it's in the 0.8 mil range. It's similar to the bags our clothes are returned in from the dry cleaners.


Thanks now fully understood ...we just call them thousands of an inch thick or use the metric equivalent . Then someone comes along and says it's so many microns thick ... it's a funny old world ain't it .
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