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Hello Guest!
Welcome to the official Square Foot Gardening Forum.
There's lots to learn here by reading as a guest. However, if you become a member (it's free, ad free and spam-free) you'll have access to our large vermiculite databases, our seed exchange spreadsheets, Mel's Mix calculator, and many more members' pictures in the Gallery. Enjoy.

Single Stem Tomatoes I22gcj10Single Stem Tomatoes 14dhcg10

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Single Stem Tomatoes

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TejasTerry
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Post  Randy Wallace 4/24/2013, 9:01 am

Hi,
Can someone help me understand the single stem concept? In the book Mel says to remove side branches, and weave the single stem in and out of the trellis netting. I am not understanding what should be removed exactly.
Randy Wallace
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Post  landarch 4/24/2013, 10:18 am

Here's a pic of what to pinch or prune off...a small shoot that forms right in the crotch of the main stem and side stem.
Single Stem Tomatoes Prunin10
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Post  Randy Wallace 4/24/2013, 10:23 am

Thank you, I guess the single stem verbiage had me confused. Can't wait to prune those little dudes.
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Post  TejasTerry 4/24/2013, 11:00 am

I've removed the side stems from the lower portion of the plants. I am trying to keep any leaves from touching the ground, as this can cause disease.

I'm no expert, but the plants are really bushing out nicely and putting on blooms. I try to keep up with the suckers on a daily basis (the picture as illustrated above). From what I understand, the suckers are actually new plants forming and can rob your plant of energy needed to produce blooms and make fruit. I also read that the suckers can be planted in soil and will form a new plant.

Probably more info than you wanted, but I think tomato plants are really fascinating ! Smile
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Post  Randy Wallace 4/24/2013, 11:52 am

No, by all means I'm all ears. The other reason to keep them trim is so that they work in one sf correct? I'm wondering how multiple tomato plants will work at 12" apart.
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Post  jazzycat 4/24/2013, 2:44 pm

If you go to the bottom of this page, there is a diagram of which ones to remove. Apparently you're supposed to leave some of them, if they're right below the flowers. I didn't know that until I saw this diagram.

http://www.extension.org/pages/18647/training-systems-and-pruning-in-organic-tomato-production
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Post  Randy Wallace 4/24/2013, 2:54 pm

Thank You, This is all very helpful. Now to figure out determinate, and indeterminate plants, cool.
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Post  CapeCoddess 4/24/2013, 3:21 pm

jazzycat wrote:If you go to the bottom of this page, there is a diagram of which ones to remove. Apparently you're supposed to leave some of them, if they're right below the flowers. I didn't know that until I saw this diagram.

http://www.extension.org/pages/18647/training-systems-and-pruning-in-organic-tomato-production

jazzy, very interesting....I did not know that. Or if I did I forgot already. Rolling Eyes

Thanks!
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Post  landarch 4/24/2013, 3:53 pm

The only problem I see with the single vine method is that it leaves the tomatoes exposed to direct sunlight and heat...may need to use some type of shade covering if the tomatoes start to roast in the July and August sun/ heat.
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Post  brenda g 4/24/2013, 5:58 pm

Just wanted to jump in and say thanks for the article, jazzycat! I had previously been pruning all the suckers, so am interested to try this method and see how they do!
Also, I found a tomato health at a glance graphic online, thought you might find it helpful for troubleshooting. Good luck with your tomatoes Randy! Smile
http://foodfromtheyard.blogspot.com/2012/03/watch-your-tomatoes.html


Last edited by brenda g on 4/24/2013, 6:00 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : link problem)
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Post  Randy Wallace 4/24/2013, 6:30 pm

Thanks Brenda g
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Post  landarch 4/24/2013, 6:58 pm

what the diagram does not show is that the next stem on the right could also have blossoms so both suckers would be removed, correct?
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Post  camprn 4/24/2013, 7:04 pm

CapeCoddess wrote:
jazzycat wrote:If you go to the bottom of this page, there is a diagram of which ones to remove. Apparently you're supposed to leave some of them, if they're right below the flowers. I didn't know that until I saw this diagram.

http://www.extension.org/pages/18647/training-systems-and-pruning-in-organic-tomato-production

jazzy, very interesting....I did not know that. Or if I did I forgot already. Rolling Eyes

Thanks!
CC
From the way I read the information in the article, you only leave the main stem and one sucker. If you leave anymore than that the plant will put the resources into more foliage and not the fruit. Also, it becomes a management nightmare.

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Post  CapeCoddess 4/24/2013, 7:15 pm

After things get going we could probably take that bottom sucker off. That's what I would do.

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Post  jazzycat 4/24/2013, 7:20 pm

landarch wrote:what the diagram does not show is that the next stem on the right could also have blossoms so both suckers would be removed, correct?

I'm thinking also that it might have something to do with a stem that just has leaves on it, compared to blossoms and suckers. But I really have NO IDEA! All this stuff confounds me. I am learning though. What a Face

And you're welcome, to everyone who thanked me for the link to that site. Honestly, because I'm growing SO MANY tomato plants, I'm more motivated to learn about them to make sure I do everything right (or at least as much as possible). So sometimes I just search and search to see what I can learn. yea, I'm obsessive like that. What a Face
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Post  camprn 4/24/2013, 7:30 pm

jazzycat wrote:
landarch wrote:what the diagram does not show is that the next stem on the right could also have blossoms so both suckers would be removed, correct?

I'm thinking also that it might have something to do with a stem that just has leaves on it, compared to blossoms and suckers.
That would be a leaf branch, which is not a sucker. As your plants grow you will be able to tell the difference.

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