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Square Foot Gardening Forum
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Apple trees for mid South - Page 2 Toplef10Apple trees for mid South - Page 2 1zd3ho10

Hello Guest!
Welcome to the official Square Foot Gardening Forum.
There's lots to learn here by reading as a guest. However, if you become a member (it's free, ad free and spam-free) you'll have access to our large vermiculite databases, our seed exchange spreadsheets, Mel's Mix calculator, and many more members' pictures in the Gallery. Enjoy.

Apple trees for mid South - Page 2 I22gcj10Apple trees for mid South - Page 2 14dhcg10

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Apple trees for mid South

+4
staf74
dizzygardener
duhh
dixie
8 posters

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Apple trees for mid South - Page 2 Empty Re: Apple trees for mid South

Post  dizzygardener 3/24/2011, 9:15 am

Staf,

If you want your blueberries to be good and strong don't let them bare fruit until they are 3 years old and have a base of about 1.5 to 2 feet in diameter. This allows the plant to focus on establishing a strong and healthy root system.
dizzygardener
dizzygardener

Female Posts : 668
Join date : 2011-01-26
Location : WNC 6b

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Post  staf74 3/24/2011, 10:50 am

That would make sense and one of the reasons why I paid a few extra $$$ for the bigger plants. I was impatient ! "In the pics, the four whiskey barrels varieties are 4 and 5 years old but the three others are 2 or maybe 3 years old. I might keep one budding just to see what happens but will pull the buds on the other two to build a stronger plant. Thanks for the reminder !
staf74
staf74

Male Posts : 554
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Age : 49
Location : York, SC

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Post  dizzygardener 3/24/2011, 11:11 am

Oh I see. I can totally relate to the whole impatience thing. I can't tell from the pictures, but are the bases of the plants about 1.5 to 2 feet in diameter?

Also, with them already being 5 years old you're probably going to need to trim some of the fruiting wood way back in the next couple years. If wood is grayish and is forming lichen it is time to prune it way back. That indicates that the wood is nearing the end of its productive capacity.

Our master gardener class just had its blueberry seminar last week. We went to an orchard and the guy giving the lecture showed us how to resurrect new wood (once the fruiting wood is gray and forms lichen). I nearly lost my breathe! By the time he was done with that blueberry bush it was pruned back by about 80-90%! Shocked I don't know if I would have had the heart for it, but the bush will resurrect new wood and continue to produce.

Then he moved on to the grapevines. He pruned those back by 90% and recommended that we do so every year! affraid I think I'd probably need a prozac after all that pruning, but this guy had NO fear. I guess 40 years experience will do that to ya. His advice: "Prune until it hurts. Then, prune some more." LOL
dizzygardener
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Post  staf74 3/24/2011, 12:11 pm

Yes , I do have quite a few Grey stalks. Some of them look perfect, long, green and succulent but some...oh my....I thought the plant was diseased at first.....scraggly and old looking in parts. I pruned off the worst of the dead wood and the twiggy stuff but did not have the heart to prune way back.....just yet anyway. The owner of the blueberry farm I went to for purchase did go over some of that with me. I will wait until after fruiting to do that I think. I need to see the cycle of the bush and learn its habits to be comfortable before I get out the loppers !!!!. I've seen a couple of you-tube vids on regenerative pruning also and it looks so painful !!!!. I'll take what looks like the oldest wood in early fall and hopefully I'll get plenty of new suckers coming up from the base. The rootballs of the plants now in whiskey barrels were all close to 18 inches wide, but not as big as two foot for sure. The other 3 were only 8-10 inches in diameter.

Thanks again for the advice ! It really helps me out during my freshman blueberry season.
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Post  morganfam7 3/20/2012, 1:04 pm

duhh wrote:I'm always shocked when I see fuji apple here that need 2-3x the chill hours being sold here.

I found this info on Tom's Top 21 List "An updated list of successful Low-Chill fruit varieties for the Southwest." Tom Spellman is part of Dave Wilson Nurseries in So. Cal. There's also an eye opening article about Chill hours and how hard they are to calculate at the Dave Wilson site.

Here's what Tom says about Fuji apples:


Imported from Japan in the 1960’s Fuji is a cross between Ralls Janet
and Delicious. Once thought to require high chill, Fuji has proven
itself as a reliable producer throughout the low-chill southwest. We now
rate it at less than 500 chill hours and for all practical purposes it
should be considered in the 200 to 400 hour range. Fuji’s exterior color
is a lackluster yellowish green with a blush of orange. Its interior
color is a creamy orange yellow with a wonderful crispy, crunchy sweet
flavor so don’t let its dull exterior fool you. Fuji has fast become one
of the most popular apples varieties in the world. Fuji is
self-fruitful and is also a recommended pollenizer for other mid season
apple varieties. Its ripening in the southwest is from late August
through October. Fuji is also an excellent keeper and can maintain good
quality for more than six months.

http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/all_tom/tomPicks.html

The Dave Wilson Nursery Channel on youtube has some awesome videos, too.
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