Squash Leaves

Discovering the culinary merits of squash leaves was one of my all-time highlights of allotment life, and continues to be so. This came about a couple of years ago when a man drove up to the lottie in late August. As I was inspecting my squashes, he got out of his car, breathless, and said, with a heavy accent “I’ve been coming past for days hoping to find someone here!” I thought maybe he’d lost his pet or something. “Please,” he begged, “can I have some of your flowers?” “Which ones?” I asked. “Those,” he said, pointing to the squashes. “Oh, yes,” I said, “they are good!” “And please,” he said, “the leaves as well, and stems?” I’d never tried the leaves, so I asked him what he does with them. “Just chop them,” he replied, “fry onion in oil, add the leaves and water – that’s it. Soup! Or,” he continued, “just fry with garlic and dried chilli. The flowers – you can stuff them with meat and steam them, or make tempura. That’s the best way."

... So we’ve been feasting on pumpkin and courgette [summer squash] leaves ever since, whenever the plants get unruly and throw out tender young shoots. I try not to decimate the plant obviously, so it’s a fortnightly treat from mid-July onwards . The prickles do subside in cooking but you are left with a wonderful, lightly abrasive ‘mouth feel’ (a term I don’t like, but it’s the best way to describe it), and an inimitable big, sweet, earthy flavour.

Squash leaves will be dark and leathery by now, but the plants should still be throwing out new shoots. Pick from July onwards to control these domineering plants. Earlier in the season, even larger leaves are tasty, but by late August, stick to the small bright green young ones.

Wash all leaves and shred. Fry a generous amount of garlic in oil for 1-2 minutes, add the leaves and a pinch of salt. (They shrink considerably so don’t overdo the salt.) Stir for a couple of minutes, cover and allow to steam in their own juice, stirring occasionally. Depending on size, they may take up to 15 minutes before suitably tender and reduced. Serve hot with anything, or in solitary splendor. I love this as an appetizer, on its own.

middlemamma wrote:I don't know much about the grape leaves thing, but I believe that it is a common greek dish to eat them stuffed. A greek cookbook or something might offer some recipes for that.

Chopper wrote:Picked some squash leaves tonight. Am going to try the stalks in a frittata in the morning. I will let you know...

Lavender Debs wrote:That is a great idea. A frittata is always a safe way to test greens (err, or, leaves). Get your camera!

Shoda wrote:Looks wonderful. Did you notice the prickly, abrasive mouth feel or did it get masked by the eggs and other ingredients?