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Tomato disease help Empty Tomato disease help

Post  LilBittyBean on 4/1/2020, 11:16 am

Hi all. I've been through the stickied info on tomato diseases, but so many of the diseases look the same to me. The leaves have spots and some branches occasionally brown off and die. Confused as to whether the issue is bacterial wilt, septoria leaf spot, or blight. 

Tomato disease help Tomato1


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THANKS!
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Post  OhioGardener on 4/1/2020, 11:48 am

That appears to be Early Leaf Blight, a very difficult disease to stop once it gets started. The best prevention is early in the season ensure that none of the plants leaves are allowed to touch the soil, where the blight overwinters.  But, once it does affect the plant it gets down to slowing down its progression.  Carefully remove all affected leaves without touching any leaves not showing signs of blight. Bag and dispose of the affected leaves. Wash your hands and arms before touching plants again. Then spray the plant with Copper, such as this one. Continue monitoring the plant for more affected leaves, and remove them as necessary. Re-spray as needed.

Check out this site for additional info on the types of Tomato Blight:  Different Kinds of Tomato Blight

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Post  LilBittyBean on 4/1/2020, 12:20 pm

Thanks for the diagnosis and for the helpful info, Ohio. I'm wary of Amazon deliveries at this time, but I'll try to find the copper spray at the nursery near me. I think it's still open. Until I can get there, do you think this might work: https://www.bioadvanced.com/products/rose-flower-care/serenade-garden

I've got a full bottle of it and it claims to help "suppress" early blight.

Thanks!
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Post  OhioGardener on 4/1/2020, 12:49 pm

I have never used that product, so don't know how effective it is.  I did look up the ingredients of it, and see that the active ingredient is "Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713". A google search shows that it works by competing with the fungus rather than killing it:

Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 is a widespread bacterium found in soil, water, and air. Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 controls the growth of certain harmful bacteria and fungi, presumably by competing for nutrients, growth sites on plants, and by directly colonizing and attaching to fungal pathogens.

So, my guess is that it will not hurt to try it, but I don't know if it will successfully control it.  Sorry I can't be more help.  I am sure, though, that your local nursery has copper spray available - it is a very common control for fungus, especially by organic gardeners & farmers.

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Post  LilBittyBean on 4/1/2020, 2:39 pm

Thanks, Ohio! I did as you mentioned and also disinfected my garden snips before and after removing the affected leaves. I'll try out the Serenade, but will still try finding the copper spray. 
thanks
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Tomato disease help Empty Some kind of Blight?

Post  OldCrow on 5/31/2020, 6:07 pm

Tomato disease help Dscf4112
Any ideas of this type fungus/virus or is this normal(not counting on that Sad  )?  Notice the black edges appearing. Also the leaves are loosing the vibrant green to a more yellow green.  I'm growing 3 plants in 3 2gal homer buckets with Mel's Mix and all 3 have this issue. seems to have spread from one to the next. I didn't wise up soon enough to segregate or ever "lockdown" the first offending plant Sad  My other plant in a 5gal homer I've keep away and it's looking healthy! 

These are Geranium Kiss Tomato seeds from MIGardener. com . 
Thanks 

PS Mel's Mix ROCKS! I have an Elevated bed, about 3ft and an in ground raised bed. The elevated has Mel's the in ground is 50/50 soil/compost. As a for instance, 16 of 16 radish up and sooner in Mel's than 10 of 16 in the soil/compost. Same basically for cucumbers, peas, carrots, etc. 
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Post  OhioGardener on 5/31/2020, 6:28 pm

OldCrow, that would appear to be a phosphorous deficiency, but may be temporary. If the weather has cooled off down to the 50's, the tomatoes are not able to absorb/use the phosphorous that is in the soil, and will start turning purple in the leaves and stems. If this is the case, the problem will correct itself as the weather warms into the 60's and above again.  If you have a good MM as you indicated, it likely has enough phosphorous, but the plants aren't absorbing it. If low temp isn't the problem, you may want to add some rock phosphate, bone meal, or fish emulsion fertilizer.

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Post  Scorpio Rising on 5/31/2020, 6:41 pm

Agree, it has been a cool spring!

https://luv2garden.com/tomato_leaves_purple.html

Should fix itself, but bone meal is cheap and doesn’t hurt anything!  In moderation, that is..


Last edited by Scorpio Rising on 5/31/2020, 6:42 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Moderation)
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Post  OldCrow on 5/31/2020, 8:08 pm

Very Interesting... It's been a warm week, highs 70s-80s and then I bring them inside to mid 60s in the evening. I had read somewhere that Tomatoes didn't like below 65F so I've been trying to keep them warmer. 
Another data point, I looked closely at the compost I bought and it was supposed to be cow with fish. But it certainly seems to have a lot of wood fiber. But then I know less about compost than the dark side of the moon. So my MM may be a bit light on NPK. 
I did give them all a small handful of bone meal a few days ago. I've never used bone meal before, any recommendations? 
The bag says generically for "potted plants" a table spoon full. Too little or a bit more?? 

As a back up in case these plants were not recoverable I sowed 3 tomatoes today in red solo cups in a MM plus about 25% worm compost from my very own happy red wigglers Smile  We shouldn't get any more frost but tonight is high 30s, not happy time to tomatoes.
Thanks a million for your insights.
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Post  Scorpio Rising on 6/1/2020, 4:45 pm

@OldCrow wrote:Very Interesting... It's been a warm week, highs 70s-80s and then I bring them inside to mid 60s in the evening. I had read somewhere that Tomatoes didn't like below 65F so I've been trying to keep them warmer. 
Another data point, I looked closely at the compost I bought and it was supposed to be cow with fish. But it certainly seems to have a lot of wood fiber. But then I know less about compost than the dark side of the moon. So my MM may be a bit light on NPK. 
I did give them all a small handful of bone meal a few days ago. I've never used bone meal before, any recommendations? 
The bag says generically for "potted plants" a table spoon full. Too little or a bit more?? 

As a back up in case these plants were not recoverable I sowed 3 tomatoes today in red solo cups in a MM plus about 25% worm compost from my very own happy red wigglers Smile  We shouldn't get any more frost but tonight is high 30s, not happy time to tomatoes.
Thanks a million for your insights.
With organic blood and bone meals, there is almost no way to hurt stuff with them.  They are very slow release, I use them a lot.  I just side dress and lightly rake in with fingers or a mini rake.  Just don’t get blood meal on the plants, it can burn stuff or rot things like garlic, onions, just not good to get on the leaves.  

I have learned the hard way to look at my commercially purchased compost.  It can really lack availability and wood locks up nitrogen hard!
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Post  OldCrow on 6/1/2020, 7:07 pm

Hello SR, I gave the tomatoes each a heaping tablespoon of bone meal today, worked it in to the surface 1/2inch. Fingers crossed, see in a week or two. 

The compost I bought was from a local farm in bulk 1 cu-yd. I think I'm going over to the farm this week just to chat up the owners a bit about there compost. Just to get a better feel for what's happening.
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Post  OldCrow on 6/1/2020, 7:07 pm

Hello SR, I gave the tomatoes each a heaping tablespoon of bone meal today, worked it in to the surface 1/2inch. Fingers crossed, see in a week or two. 

The compost I bought was from a local farm in bulk 1 cu-yd. I think I'm going over to the farm this week just to chat up the owners a bit about their compost. Just to get a better feel for what's happening.
OC
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Post  has55 on 6/7/2020, 12:45 am

The data is showing feeding the plant with foliar organic food is absorb within a few hrs which is rapid. I would try some garrent juice pro. I'm spraying my plants using a hose end sprayer because it quick. Pump sprayer is more cost effective. Medina also has a good plant food fertilizer for foliar spraying. The show on the bottle that the elments are chelated which is the form that plants take in their nutrition. This is done in the soil by bacteria and fungi and protozan and other food web creatures. My plants look great and seem to holding their own with our elevated heat, 99 degress.
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