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Hello Guest!
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Post  greatgranny 2017-09-28, 10:29

My tomatoes are toast.  Within 4 days (while it was raining heavily) they looked like someone had burned the leaves.  Some of the tomatoes started to have a strange dark part on some of the tomatoes.  So, today, I pulled all of the ones that are still okay - even the green ones - and cut the plants and will burn them. 
I have never had a blight before.  We have had some mighty hot days for this time of the year.  It was followed by the rain and the normal fall temps. 
So, took the entire plant (roots and all).  Next to this is the lima beans.  Not having an issue with them.  The rest of the box was harvested when I pulled the beets.  (no problem there either)  Thinking about the spring.  What should I do now or in the spring that will kill what ever it was.  I suspect that it was some type of blight.  No, we haven't had any frost so it can't be that. 

One more question:

Planting garlic within the next couple of weeks.  Can I plant them in the same place I had them for this year? 
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Post  sanderson 2017-09-28, 20:15

I'm sorry about the tomatoes. Sad.

Regarding garlic, I know one is supposed to rotate crops around the beds. I have limited options for garlic and have to use the same beds. So far, so good.

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Post  greatgranny 2017-09-29, 04:45

Thanks, Sanderson.

Think I am going to plant in the same place.  I too do not have a great deal of space. 

If anyone else has a different reply, feel free.  Still have about 3 or 4 weeks.
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Post  BeetlesPerSqFt 2017-09-29, 06:33

What to do about the tomato disease depends on what the disease was -- many of them are easier to identify when you catch the signs early because, well, dead leaves all look the same. Was the dark part on the tomatoes on the bottoms, sides, tops, or all over? Was it one large spot/area on the affected tomato fruits, or several small ones on each fruit?

Plant diseases usually affect a group of related plants, so it's not surprising that a tomato family disease didn't affect plants in the bean family or the spinach/beet family.

The reason to switch up your plants is to avoid building up populations of diseases and overwintering pests, and balance out the nutrient depletion. Adding compost helps with the second. The first depends on the plant and your garden. The University of Minnesota extension says "Insects do not appear to be a major problem for garlic production in Minnesota.", so overwintered pests probably aren't an issue for you. That leaves various fungi as a potential concern. If none of the bulbs you harvested from that bed are rotting, dry-rotting, or molding you may be safe there, for now. Planting in the same spot doesn't guarantee disaster. It's a "prevention is the best cure" type of thing.
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Post  greatgranny 2017-09-29, 07:56

Thanks BeetlesPerSqFt.

Will take a photo of tomatoes so that it will show how the tomatoes looked if they were on the vine before I took all of the plants out of the garden.  No time at the moment though.
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Post  greatgranny 2017-10-01, 16:40

Here are a couple of pictures of the tomatoes.  Even when some looked okay, within a short while they started to change to this.

Two issues Tomato12
Two issues Tomato13
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Post  Scorpio Rising 2017-10-01, 17:23

Looks like a virus.  Beetles?
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Post  BeetlesPerSqFt 2017-10-01, 17:53

It does seem like it could be blight, but I'm not sure - but maybe someone else can comment.
I did find this neat site that has pictures of how different diseases affect different parts of the tomato plant.
I have it set on fruit, but you can click leaves at the top for leaf pics
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomFrt/TomFrtKey.html
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Post  greatgranny 2017-10-01, 18:40

BeetlesPerSqFt wrote:It does seem like it could be blight, but I'm not sure - but maybe someone else can comment.
I did find this neat site that has pictures of how different diseases affect different parts of the tomato plant.
I have it set on fruit, but you can click leaves at the top for leaf pics
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomFrt/TomFrtKey.html
I did look at this and was overwhelmed that there were that many things that can go wrong.  I am thinking that it might be
Tobacco Mosaic (Single Streak) Virus on Tomato Fruit 

No sure if this is right but looks the closest.  What does one do?
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Post  BeetlesPerSqFt 2017-10-02, 07:22

greatgranny wrote:
BeetlesPerSqFt wrote:It does seem like it could be blight, but I'm not sure - but maybe someone else can comment.
I did find this neat site that has pictures of how different diseases affect different parts of the tomato plant.
I have it set on fruit, but you can click leaves at the top for leaf pics
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomFrt/TomFrtKey.html
I did look at this and was overwhelmed that there were that many things that can go wrong.  I am thinking that it might be
Tobacco Mosaic (Single Streak) Virus on Tomato Fruit 

No sure if this is right but looks the closest.  What does one do?
I much better at identifying creatures with legs....

The second late blight photo from the bottom looks like your second photo:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/fruit-vegetable/plant-diseases/late-blight-tomato/index.html

I wonder if there are two different issues shown, rather than one: the closeup photo of stinkbug damage looks more like your first photo. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/plant-bugs/stink-bugs.aspx
I don't think the damage is immediately apparent after feeding, but becomes apparent later as the fruit reacts to the injury, so I think it could show up on fruits after you brought them inside.

Did your plants exhibit the other symptoms described for the TMss virus?
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/fruit-vegetable/plant-diseases/tomato-mosaic-virus-tobacco-mosaic-virus/index.html

If the main problem is late blight, it sounds like it won't overwinter unless you have piles of rotting potatoes, and you've already done what you should do (pull the plants and destroy them.) You should also pull out and destroy any tomato volunteers that pop up next year, and not use any seed that was produced in fruits on infected plants.
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Post  greatgranny 2017-10-02, 07:53

According to your pictures it looks the most like the late blight.  The leaves went brown in a matter of one or two days.  Never have seen anything like this before.  I have planted tomatoes for over 50 years and never have had an issue like this.  It was a strange year with lots of heat and no rain to the opposite (cool and lots of rain).  Right before this started we had lots of rain.  It was right after that when I found the leaves and some fruit showing the problem

Thanks for you help.
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Post  Scorpio Rising 2017-10-03, 17:14

Right, very strange year here also weather wise.  Just re-group and try one of the resistant varieties maybe?
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Post  greatgranny 2017-10-03, 18:58

Scorpio Rising wrote:Right, very strange year here also weather wise.  Just re-group and try one of the resistant varieties maybe?

Had rainfall yesterday that went up to about 9 this morning.  A total of over 8 inches at my place.  The rain gauge couldn't hold it all.  For some reason this is the way the rains have been all summer.  Dry for weeks and then this.

Yes, resistant varieties for sure.
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Post  Scorpio Rising 2017-10-03, 19:24

greatgranny wrote:
Scorpio Rising wrote:Right, very strange year here also weather wise.  Just re-group and try one of the resistant varieties maybe?

Had rainfall yesterday that went up to about 9 this morning.  A total of over 8 inches at my place.  The rain gauge couldn't hold it all.  For some reason this is the way the rains have been all summer.  Dry for weeks and then this.

Yes, resistant varieties for sure.
Same here.  Cold, and super wet, hot and dry.....nothing from the sky...repeat.  And the wet leftovers from the devastating storms, Lord!!   Crazy...
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