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Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
+5
akc203
ander217
milaneyjane
Chopper
vinny09
9 posters
Page 1 of 1
Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
So I think a couple of my tomato plants are suffering from Fusarium Wilt. In 1 SFG, 2 of the 4 have them (the ones on the outside; the two in between don't have symptoms yet). A few of the lower stems and their leaves on the plants are turning yellow, one stem has turned brown and shriveled. Both plants are bearing fruit (all green). What are the chances that my plants will survive to allow the fruit to ripen? If so, are the fruit still edible? I've been reading that Fusarium Wilt is terminal to tomato plants, but how soon depends on when the plant "caught" it. Also, should I cut these stems off and throw them out or just leave the plants as is to avoid any open wounds? Or is there something I can try to save them? Or should I start new transplants in a new box to ensure I get tomatoes this season? Thanks in advance!
vinny09- Posts : 54
Join date : 2010-03-31
Location : CA
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
I don't think I have ever made it through a year without ill tomatoes. But I almost always get a harvest of some sort. I would let them keep going. I always pick off the sick looking leaves in the hopes of keeping things in check. No idea if it helps.
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Last year my tomatoes came down with something, and we never did figure out exactly what it was. It was mid season and despite most of the leaves turning yellow and falling off, I still got bumper crops.
milaneyjane- Posts : 422
Join date : 2010-03-18
Location : MN Zone 4
Fusarium
Here is an excerpt from a publication by Colorado State University Extension:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02949.html
Recognizing Tomato Problems
by B. Edmunds and L. Pottorff 1 (5/09)
Fusarium wilt and Fusarium crown rot symptoms (Figure 7) begin as yellowing of older leaves. With Fusarium crown rot, the leaves often turn brown or black and eventually wilt. With Fusarium wilt, the yellow leaves turn downward and droop. Fusarium oxysporum, the cause of both diseases, is a common tomato fungus that lives in the plant's vascular system, which carries water from the roots to the leaves. To see if either of these diseases is present:
Most tomato seeds or transplants are labeled with a code such as "VFN," "VFNA," "VFNT," etc. This indicates that the plants are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F), southern root-knot nematode (N), early blight (A), or tobacco (tomato) mosaic virus (T). Verticillim wilt and root knot nematodes rarely cause a problem in Colorado, but if you have had a Fusarium wilt problem in the past, it would be a good idea to choose a variety labeled 'F'. Do not plant tomatoes, potatoes or eggplant in the affected area for two or three years. No fungicides are labeled for control.
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02949.html
Recognizing Tomato Problems
by B. Edmunds and L. Pottorff 1 (5/09)
Fusarium wilt and Fusarium crown rot symptoms (Figure 7) begin as yellowing of older leaves. With Fusarium crown rot, the leaves often turn brown or black and eventually wilt. With Fusarium wilt, the yellow leaves turn downward and droop. Fusarium oxysporum, the cause of both diseases, is a common tomato fungus that lives in the plant's vascular system, which carries water from the roots to the leaves. To see if either of these diseases is present:
- Check watering practices. Both over- and underwatering can mimic disease symptoms.
- Check the roots. Discolored roots indicate root rot.
- Cut the lower or main stem and look inside at the vascular tissue. Fusarium wilt causes a dark brown discoloration within the vascular tissue. Fusarium crown rot causes a rot or canker at the base of the stem and possibly a root rot.
Most tomato seeds or transplants are labeled with a code such as "VFN," "VFNA," "VFNT," etc. This indicates that the plants are resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F), southern root-knot nematode (N), early blight (A), or tobacco (tomato) mosaic virus (T). Verticillim wilt and root knot nematodes rarely cause a problem in Colorado, but if you have had a Fusarium wilt problem in the past, it would be a good idea to choose a variety labeled 'F'. Do not plant tomatoes, potatoes or eggplant in the affected area for two or three years. No fungicides are labeled for control.
ander217- Posts : 1450
Join date : 2010-03-16
Age : 69
Location : Southeastern Missouri (6b)
One more thing
I forgot to add that it's safe to eat tomatoes from a dying vine, but they may not taste like "vine-ripened". Just don't use them for canning, although I'm not sure why the experts say that - maybe the acidity level changes.
ander217- Posts : 1450
Join date : 2010-03-16
Age : 69
Location : Southeastern Missouri (6b)
Wilt
Dealing with Fusarium Wilt. Pulled out 8 plants last night on the advice of my local extensi, on office. I now have 50+ green tomatoes and want to pickle them. There was a comment saying not to can them, but I wonder about pickling. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
akc203- Posts : 1
Join date : 2012-06-16
Location : Tulsa, OK
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
I would recommend you consult the extension service for a definitive answer...akc203 wrote:Dealing with Fusarium Wilt. Pulled out 8 plants last night on the advice of my local extensi, on office. I now have 50+ green tomatoes and want to pickle them. There was a comment saying not to can them, but I wonder about pickling. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
The really stinky thing is that it is advised to not plant tomatoes in the same spot for 3 years.
43 years a gardener and going strong with SFG.
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t3574-the-end-of-july-7-weeks-until-frost
There are certain pursuits which, if not wholly poetic and true, do at least suggest a nobler and finer relation to nature than we know. The keeping of bees, for instance. ~ Henry David Thoreau
https://squarefoot.forumotion.com/t1306-other-gardening-books
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
I have used hydrogen peroxide
especially on nursery stock I have bought that showed signs of
Fusarium Wilt and it has usually gotten rid of the disease. You will
lose some of the lower branches on the afflicted plant and it takes some time. I also use it
to water the soil around the plant. Sometimes you have to treat every
other day, however if you are diligent, you will remove the disease.
It's cheapest to buy 35% food or
reagent grade H2O2 from a chemical supply house by the gallon.
To try
H2O2 out, the 40 volume clear peroxide that hair dressers use for
hair bleaching (not the cream) is available at beauty supply stores.
It's not as consistent as food/reagent but it works.
For the 40 volume you mix:
Tune up:
1½ tea spoons per quart of
water.
6 tea spoons per gallon.
Diseased:
3 tea spoons per quart
4 table spoons per gallon.
Here are some links that I used when I first tried H2O2
How to mix and apply Hydrogen Peroxide in Gardening
Mixing charts for gardening with hydrogen peroxide
especially on nursery stock I have bought that showed signs of
Fusarium Wilt and it has usually gotten rid of the disease. You will
lose some of the lower branches on the afflicted plant and it takes some time. I also use it
to water the soil around the plant. Sometimes you have to treat every
other day, however if you are diligent, you will remove the disease.
It's cheapest to buy 35% food or
reagent grade H2O2 from a chemical supply house by the gallon.
To try
H2O2 out, the 40 volume clear peroxide that hair dressers use for
hair bleaching (not the cream) is available at beauty supply stores.
It's not as consistent as food/reagent but it works.
For the 40 volume you mix:
Tune up:
1½ tea spoons per quart of
water.
6 tea spoons per gallon.
Diseased:
3 tea spoons per quart
4 table spoons per gallon.
Here are some links that I used when I first tried H2O2
How to mix and apply Hydrogen Peroxide in Gardening
Mixing charts for gardening with hydrogen peroxide
webbee- Posts : 21
Join date : 2012-05-25
Location : In The Garden
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Hello all, I realize I'm late here, but I'm dealing wih fusarium now.
I have read not to plant any nightshades unless the seeds are marked on the packet with an F for 5 years. And after 5 years, the fusarium will just be reduced, not gone.
I am curious about using H202...someone told me that and I got all excited about it, but then someone else mentioned if you do that you will be killing all the good microbes in your soil. I decided against it. I would love to learn more about it.
I am using Actinovate in the garden and still not planting nightshades any more. Actinovate is supposed to support the plant host itself, from what I just learned from a university researcher.
I have had fusarium for about 3-4 years and am finally just not planting nightshades.
I have read not to plant any nightshades unless the seeds are marked on the packet with an F for 5 years. And after 5 years, the fusarium will just be reduced, not gone.
I am curious about using H202...someone told me that and I got all excited about it, but then someone else mentioned if you do that you will be killing all the good microbes in your soil. I decided against it. I would love to learn more about it.
I am using Actinovate in the garden and still not planting nightshades any more. Actinovate is supposed to support the plant host itself, from what I just learned from a university researcher.
I have had fusarium for about 3-4 years and am finally just not planting nightshades.
jtuck2- Posts : 29
Join date : 2011-04-07
Location : San Diego
Re: Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
FW is a soil borne fungus that can survive dormant for up to 10 years ( page 73 microbes book ) From what little I understand about this, it could be possible a fungal dominate compost tea, both spraying leaves and drenching soil may help to prevent this . Sort of like cucumber bacteria wilt. Keeps moisture and nutrients from plant. Something to consider..There are pathogenic and parasitic fungi that are tackled by beneficial fungi, just about the same as insects.
Just a thought
Just a thought
jimmy cee
Certified SFG Instructor- Posts : 2215
Join date : 2013-02-16
Age : 88
Location : Hatfield PA. zone 6b
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