Measuring organic content

GreenGene, Interesting question. I'm curious as to why you want the info. If you are using Mel's Mix, at least 1/3 by volume is organic, that is, once-living, recently decomposed material.

True, the moss was once living. I was assuming it was the nutrient organics that were the focus. The word "Organic" is used in several ways.

GreenGene,  I also live in a Zone 9A.  It was 101*F today.  The MM looks beautiful, and the beds and watering systems are so well built. But, something else is going on. My original MM and beds were so pretty but not nutritious so that is coming from someone who learned the hard way. Here's my Johnny-come-lately diagnosis from all the discussions so far today:

Over-watering:  Your area gets 40-60" of rain per year.  I got 2-3" (can't remember the total at the end) last year.  You should not have to water every day much less twice a day.  By mulching the top of the MM you can slow water from evaporating at the surface, yet allow the excess to drip out the bottom.  If the bottom MM is saturated, there could be a lack of air in the lower Mix, or soggy feet (roots).  Soggy roots can be as bad as not enough water.

Over-watering means the nutrients from the compost are going out the bottom faster than if watering occurred when it was really needed.  By cutting back the watering, the slowly released nutrients from the compost will be able to hang around more and feed the plants.

Mulching:  In hot zones, every drop of water counts.  But you have plenty of natural water so your irrigation days will only be needed between rains.  Mulching the top allows the water to more evenly distribute within the mix, side to side and top to bottom.  Mulching shades the MM, keeping it cooler.

Compost:  If you are buying 5 commercial composts as the blend, reading the labels is vital, critical, super important.  Once the beds are filled with MM, no more peat moss or vermiculite/perlite is added.  Many bagged composts have wood chips, rocks, bottle caps, peat moss, "top soil", sand, vermiculite, and other ingredients that defeat the purpose of only adding compost to refresh the Mix for the next planting.  Do you screen (1/4" metal hardware cloth) the composts to remove wood chips and other large undesirable items?  Is one of the 5 a good composted animal manure without peat moss or wood chips? My garden is getting healthier and healthier now that I make my own compost, complete with horse poop!

Can you list the 5 composts that you are using?  That will help us try to further evaluate the situation.  

Compost top dressing: The Mix in long season crops (a few months) will shrink down.  Adding compost to the top will keep providing nutrients to the end of that crop's growing cycle.

Solarization:  Solarization kills micro-organisms in the soil.  That is great if one has harmful nematodes, but other organisms are being killed at the same time.  Since you have raised beds, nematodes are probably not a problem, so don't solarize it.  I think of the movie "Avatar" where all life on that planet was inter-connected.  That's what soil is like.  Teaming with life.  Unless it's solarized, or water-logged (allows the wrong kind of organisms to flourish, the anaerobic ones, or the wrong form of fertilizers are used leading to acidic or alkaline or salty conditions, etc.

I'm sure there will be other folks adding their replies. In summary, too much watering, lack of mulch, and perhaps less than stellar compost ingredients.

I just sent you a private message. See P.M. above.

GreenGene, Can you edit your location (under Profile) so folks know when you live and what your climate is like? "South of Houston, TX" is close enough.

The plants you listed do not need pollinators. Things like cucumbers, melons, tomatillos and squashes do, or else you with a sable paint brush. I need to run but I will write more when I get back.

GreenGene, We are all here to help. My time? Well, I'm retired.