August: What to Plant in Northern California and Central Valley and Coastal Areas

Yardslave, Your way may be the best of both worlds. Straw, then chips.

Audrey, for planting I do put the chips in a bucket, amend, replant and put the chips back on. It's the mid growth addition of compost that bothers me the most. Does the wind lift off the straw? I tried corrugated cardboard strips but they sailed away!

I use wheat straw as a mulch.  I take it up in the fall and put it in my compost pile.  I do shred it before using it as a mulch.  That makes it easier to plant around or sow thru it.  It does not like to let the water thru to the soil but when I put enough water on the straw the water eventually seeps into the soil and it will sure keep the soil moist for a while.

I once tried to shred the straw I flaked off a bale by putting it in a trash can and beating the snot out of it with an electric weed whacker to get a finer mulch. Looked good on paper, but all the chaff from the trimmed straw went up in the air intakes for the motor and my weed whacker began to fry- won't be doing that any more; I'll just be try to be happy chopping it up with my lawn mower.

sanderson wrote:Yardslave,  Your way may be the best of both worlds.  Straw, then chips.

Audrey, for planting I do put the chips in a bucket, amend, replant and put the chips back on.  It's the mid growth addition of compost that bothers me the most.  Does the wind lift off the straw?  I tried corrugated cardboard strips but they sailed away!

You can simply put the compost as a top dressing and let it water down into the soil.  That's what I do and it works perfectly.  As much as is possible I try not to disturb my soil and let the microbes, fungal species and worms do the job for me.

Sometimes I have compost that's almost ready but still not totally broken down but I need to start a new batch.  I can screen it, if I have the time and energy or I can use it as a top dressing on top of my wood chips and it makes compost tea.  The uncomposted bits will continue to break down right in place.

What I was trying to avoid was getting the wood chips down into the MM. I felt they were robbing the nitrogen as they started to decompose. Plus, they stab me when I try to clean heavy roots out of the MM for next planting. Berkeley piles #4 and 5 have horse manure so I feel better about their quality, like they have a little N to spare.

I'm going to try the straw for direct sowing.at least.

Yolos, I didn't think about straw being hard to water through. But then, straw was used as roofing for a long time. I like the idea of putting the used straw from resting beds in the winter compost pile.

I read back through this short 2-page topic.  I'm wondering if it is too late to direct sow cabbage and kale?  The bed for cabbage was elevated to a TT, today, and is just waiting for something to be planted.

Audrey, With the addition of the new TTs, I have 2 window box planters available for seedlings.

sanderson wrote:I read back through this short 2-page topic.  I'm wondering if it is too late to direct sow cabbage and kale?  The bed for cabbage was elevated to a TT, today, and is just waiting for something to be planted.

Audrey,  With the addition of the new TTs, I have 2 window box planters available for seedlings.

Try reading through this article from Johnny's seeds.  Looks like you can grow Kale.  I don't know about cabbage.  Click on the chart to see individual vegetables and then click on each vegetable and it will take you to the varieties that they suggest growing in colder temps.  It says Kale, baby 7 weeks before your last 10 hour of sun day but it will have to be very baby for that short a time.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/t-winter-growing-guide-high-tunnel-scheduling.aspx?source=W_GrwrsLibRtRail_082014

Although the article says high tunnel growing, it is also relevant for growing without a high tunnel.

Walshevka (sp) Kay overwintered Kale so she my have a better idea of the growing habits of Kale.  She and I both like Winterbor Kale.

Thanks, Yolos.

sanderson wrote:Anyone brave enough to go outside in August, here's Gardenate's August planting suggestions for Zone 9A:  

Planting in August

Beans - climbing
(also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners) Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Beans - dwarf
(also French beans, Bush beans) Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Broccoli Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Capsicum
(also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers) Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Cauliflower Start undercover in seed trays and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Harvest from January.
Cowpeas
(also Black eye peas) Plant in garden. Harvest from December.
Cucumber Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Onion Plant in garden. Harvest from March.
Pumpkin Plant in garden. Harvest from December.
Salsify
(also Vegetable oyster) Plant in garden. Harvest from December.
Squash
(also Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Tomato Plant in garden. Harvest from November.
Turnip Plant in garden. Harvest from October.
Watermelon Plant in garden. Harvest from November.

Compare with Zone 8B:

   
Beans - climbing (also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners) Plant in garden.
Broccoli Plant in garden.
Carrot Plant in garden.
Cauliflower Plant in garden.
Chinese cabbage   Plant in garden.
Chives (also Garden chives) Plant in garden.
Collards /  Borekale Plant in garden.
Cucumber  Plant in garden.
Kale   Plant in garden.
Leeks Plant in garden.
Lettuce Plant in garden.
Mustard greens   Plant in garden.
Potato Plant in garden.
Silverbeet / Swiss Chard Plant in garden.
Squash (Summer squash) Plant in garden.
Turnip Plant in garden.

When I look at these planting dates, I have to scratch my head. Some of this just doesn't work in this heat. I think it is better to look at the individual city first frost date to see if there is time for something to mature before the frost. For me, it is Nov 7.

Fresno Nov 7
Sacramento Nov 11
Napa Nov 9
San Francisco Dec 8
Monterey Dec 11
San Diego Nov 12
Palm Springs Nov 18
and
Tahoe Aug 22!

Thanks for clarifying the planting dates. I tried the generally accepted dates for a few seasons but Sanderson's so right on her correction table; however, the insects aren't playing playing along with this schedule in my region. I just discovered an aphid infestation on the last of my Lacinato kale. The plants are bolting as expected with this heat. The aphids usually are a pain during the spring and by now they should be long gone, but here they are partying on my plants and increasing as I write. I planned on keeping the most prolific and slowest bolting plants for seed stock, but now I'll have to nuke them- which is a pain because I don't want to impact the already diminished bee population.

YS, Have you ever tried hosing down and then spraying the plants with a solution of Dr. Bronner's peppermint. Do it at night so they can dry by morning. It's my 2015 discovery (thanks Audrey). 2014 year it was milk. 2013 it was SFG and homemade compost.

Wish I'd checked in sooner: Last night I brought down the sprayer and filled it with an organic solution that is safe on all crops. I had lots left , so I sprayed the flowers outside the house until it was all gone. I should have read the ingredients because it is formulated with the smelliest fish oil to ever hit your nostrils. We had guests for the night, it was cooling down enough so my wife threw open the doors and windows to let in a little fresh air. I don't know what is worse, the atrocious aroma, or my wife's harping. I think I'll be hiding out in the shop until the smell goes away.

Shops are wonderful places for husbands to have, in more than one way!

sanderson wrote:YS,  Have you ever tried hosing down and then spraying the plants with a solution of Dr. Bronner's peppermint.  Do it at night so they can dry by morning.  It's my 2015 discovery (thanks Audrey).  2014 year it was milk.  2013 it was SFG and homemade compost.

Sanderson - I don't understand the "hosing down" part of your statement.  Can you clarify why you hose it down and then spray with Dr. Bronner's ???

Hose to knock down the numbers. Sometimes they are just thick (lousy) with aphids.

sanderson wrote:Hose to knock down the numbers.  Sometimes they are just thick (lousy) with aphids.

thanks sanderson, I lost tract of the thread and didn't know you were talking about aphids.

I do that 10 times a day!!

What to plant? Roast potatoes.

In our area, some of these need to be started indoors just like you might do in the spring.  Generally we're too hot still in August, then we don't get a good enough start on things to go through the winter.

A lot of these veggies will do fine in our winter temps, I leave my broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and the like uncovered and they do fine.  We get to the mid 20s for 4-6 weeks.  If it were going to get colder I can cover them.

This is late but as my daughter says, better late than really late.

I will skip showing what gardenate.com indicates to plant. One can scroll through this thread to see what they suggest. We have had a harsh summer not to mention the smoke from the fires. When I check www.fire.ca.gov, it looks like the State is burning. Possible we can have a late flush of tomatoes, peppers, beans, some herbs, cucumbers, summer squash, radishes, carrots. Time to start thinking about winter crops and get those seedlings started. Chard, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas (or direct sow). Prepare beds for winter carrots, radishes, parsnips, garlic and onion starts in September.

Make one last fast Berkeley compost pile for fall plantings or top dressing.

Watch for 50% coupons for Joann's or Hancock Fabrics for bridal tulle to protect the winter crops from the dreaded white butterfly.

Consider assembling a small green house for over-wintering container tomatoes, peppers, and get the unusual PVC fittings ordered from snapclamp.com.

Anyone else have real-life suggestions?

I have turnips sprouting, but this is my first year, so who knows? Needless to say, nothing is happy right now in this heat, but nothing is dying, either, so there's still hope.

When I visited Audrey, I noticed how green everything was compared to mine. She has some great afternoon shade, both made and natural. If I had my dream garden, it would be big, open, with lots of 4' x 4' and some skinny long ones like 2' x 6'. Mr. Booker seems to have a nice big flat area. I would have shade cloth on all the west sides with some going over the top (hoodie style) so by noon everything would be in 75% filtered shade. Next year I am going to borrow an idea from Camp that will also allow the shade cloth to be spread out beyond the boxes.

sanderson wrote:When I visited Audrey, I noticed how green everything was compared to mine.  She has some great afternoon shade, both made and natural.  If I had my dream garden, it would be big, open, with lots of 4' x 4' and some skinny long ones like 2' x 6'.  Mr. Booker seems to have a nice big flat area.  I would have shade cloth on all the west sides with some going over the top (hoodie style) so by noon everything would be in 75% filtered shade.  Next year I am going to borrow an idea from Camp that will also allow the shade cloth to be spread out beyond the boxes.

I thought I had plenty of shade, but the last heatwave prooved me wrong. Since then, Hubby put up shade frames on 3 sides of my "salad bar" but there's nothing I can do about the heat but wait until it goes away. 

Weather.  The bane.  Figuring it all out=lifelong learning.  Keeps your brain nimble!  Lookin at the bright side 

My biggest task is going to be replacing the cover for my greenhouse.  It's in tatters.  We bought some 6 mil plastic and I'm trying to locate some clips that will fit my frame.  I'm pretty sure I saw them from the mfg. somewhere!!! 

My seedlings are doing well and will transplant in a few weeks.  When is the best time to plant carrots?  I saw in September, but I've direct sown seed several times and not  had much success.  Ideas?