Anyone heating their greenhouse with 55-gallon barrels

cautery wrote:Man... I'm sick at my stomach....

I just spent over an hour writing a complete Analysis/Recommendation for the thermal mass and structure design for this thread covering the principles of heat exchange, heat conservation, coolants, containers, heat exchangers, insulation, et al... With the cheap way to do it and with all the "upgraded" ways to do it to include circulation systems, radiators, et al...

I absolutely KNOW that I hit submit.... and it is NOT showing up...

I'm sorry, but I don't have the time or the will to recreate it right now...

This is more than I could have hoped for...Thank you.

To the OP:

1) Switch to steel drums, prep and paint them with flat black corrosion inhibiting paint. Alternatively, use "jerry-cans" or similar blocky type containers of metal and build a floor to ceiling wall with a supporting structure of wood/angle iron as an upgrade.

Unfortunately I have already purchased the barrels. I will change them out at a later date.

2) Use FRESH water treated with bleach prior to closing. Salt water ain't worth the corrosion and contamination risks for the benefit it would give you.

I can do this.

3) ABSOLUTELY place the thermal mass on the North end of the structure, possibly wrapping around the West and thence the East side as long as you don't let it block light entry.

I do have 2 extra barrels, total of 4. Can I put the extra 2 on the west wall? the east wall has the door and would block the sun as well.

4) Get thermal mass up off the ground by at least 2-4" in winter to conserve heat. Floor should be insulated in winter... "mulch the floor".

Ok, I will use cement blocks to raise them up. I will also mulch the floor. I was thinking of adding weed cloth first so I can compost the wood chips when they get old/bad.


5) Air gap on all walls and roof... North and areas where sun won't shine through directly, can be opaque and built with insulated stick frame. Translucent areas... cheapest is double film, with outer film as thin as durability will allow, and inner as thin/clear as you can... minimize reduction of light transmission.

Now I am not sure what I can do here. Sorta limited on the money part. Uumm....Maybe line the inside with some painters plastic for the south/east walls. and same for the north/west then add a "stuffing" maybe to the north/west walls as well. plastic "store" bags like the wal-mart ones for the stuffing? Every one has those. Should I use something else? Or do something different?
I just haven't thought of anything else. I will have to think on that one.

6) Ventilation: Make structure AIR TIGHT. moving air is death to heat conservation, BUT add adjustable vents at minimum at/near floor in North end, and at eave/ridge in South. Used ceiling fan for winter air movement. Natural convection and/or exhaust fan at south vent for summer air exchange.

The GH is a metal cattle panel hoop house. I am wrapping the GH with this.....
Sun Selector 60% Diffused IR AD Greenhouse Film, 4 year 6mil (per sq.ft)
Please Note: You can also purchase this in a double layer known as a tube which is folded over and attached at the edge. A greenhouse tube can be seperated into 2 single greenhouse sheets.
Features:
Available widths are: Available widths are 20 and 40'.
We custom cut your film to any length that adds up to over 400 square feet (e.g 20' x 20' = 400 sq.ft)
60% Light diffusion - prevents shadowing for a more even distribution of light onto your crops.
IR - Infrared protection leads to less heat transfer meaning a more constant temperature throughout the day and night.
AD - Anti-Drip (sometimes called AC anti-condensation) prevent condensation which can lead to mold and uneven light distribution.
UVA - Ultraviolet protection prevents sun deterioration and ensures the film lasts at least 4 years.
Anti-Dust protection helps repel dirt from the surface instead of creating static that attracts dirt and impairs light.
5-Layer Technology for strength and versatility
83% light transmission, 60% light diffusion, 85% thermicity (IR Additive helps prevent heat loss).
4 Year Warranty.
I should have purchased it as a "double layer" I will do that when this plastic is no longer usable. I am wrapping the GH with the film and the adding and caulking the screen door (east wall) right on top of the film. for the window I will do the same..right on top of the film and caulk.
I will find 1 or 2 smallish fans that I can run off a solar panel. I am not sure how to add venting yet. I will be thinking on this one.

7) Summer shroud of Mylar bubble wrap around thermal mass with intake oriented North, and terminating shroud to a duct that exhausts cool air into structure... ducting can be tweaked for max effectiveness...

I am not sure If I will need to do this part yet. I am guessing I won't have plants in there till late summer for fall/winter cool crops. But I can Add this later when I need it.

Man, I hate that I lost the complete version of this....

plantoid wrote:That is some idea .. I wonder how they handled the hatching of insects like white fly in the manure tubs and stopped them harming the plants in the commercial hoop house

GWN wrote:I just ran an electric cord to the greenhouse and plugged in a space heater.... to heat it.