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Post  Triciasgarden on 10/31/2012, 1:24 pm

Welcome!

Tricia
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Post  plantoid on 11/1/2012, 4:24 am

@Turan wrote:
@plantoid wrote:Ggirl ,
I companion planted onions & carrots but the carrot tops gave far too much shade to the onions and caused them to go slimy and not develop.

I am guessing there was another variable involved as well.
Last season I raised onions through out the carrot/beet/oriental greens/raab/cilantro and pea squares with out such problems. The one spot I had a couple slimy onions was the one spot the carrots showed maggot/wireworm damage. So I assume the onions were affected by what ever it was chewing through the carrots. This was a 2 sq area in a bed that was all else were fine. I put that area into the middle of the hot compost pile in hopes that cures it.

That sounds like you've got /had ( no laughing at the spelling Wink ) boroitis fungal attack .. it develops in warm moist conditions where there is not a lot of air movement and could easily have originatd from a damaged slimy fly blown carrot.

Neat cold wood ash off untreated burnt wood finely sprinkled over areas of newly sown carrot seed is supposed to stop carrot fly strike for the life of the carrot .
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Post  Unmutual on 11/2/2012, 12:20 pm

There are a few things I need to figure out still, and since I keep rearranging my garden, finding the permanent spot is one of them(I think I've finally gotten it right, even if the beds are arranged on the wrong sun aspect since they are now running northish to southish).

First, set up the perfect rotation system and figure out what heirloom varieties I'm willing to acclimatize(Amish Paste is looking like a winner so far for tomatoes).

Figure out what else I can grow during the hot summer months besides tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers.

Figure out planting dates so all my onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, peppers, etc. don't happen all at once, while keeping my tomatoes(Amish Paste, not the cherry tomatoes) and peppers from all happening at once. I still want all the Amish Pastes to come at once so I can try my hand at canning. Garlic I want all at once too, just not the rest. I'm thinking weekly plantings.

Last but not least: MULCHING! I really need to get into the practice of mulching.
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Post  floyd1440 on 11/3/2012, 7:02 am

First I will try to determine what didn't work and that was my cucumbers as they all died within a week so will have to try to keep a closer eye on them next year. Next I looked at what we used the most of and that was tomatoes, hot peppers, beans, and herbs for the summer.

Now I tried pole beans and they were great producers but my assistant said she could not reach them past a certain height so has requested to go to bush beans next year.

As far as the tomatoes we both liked the bicolor toms like Mr. Stripey but the yield on this variety was low and am considering Hillbily next season. Grape tomatoes are very popular in salads, on top of pizzas, or just snacking and they go fast.

My sweet peppers did not do well but my neighbor has a sweet oblong looking one, about 5-7 inches long but he does not know the variety and did not save any seeds. Anyone have an ideas what strain this may be as it was very productive compaired to standard bell peppers?
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Post  mschaef on 11/3/2012, 2:21 pm

For us to have a garden this coming year. We weren't able to this year due to moving. But I have big plans for this coming year. I'm not doing boxes or mel's mix because we are in a community garden and their soil is already really good also we might end up moving next year or the year after Evil or Very Mad and I can't see spending the money just to loose it.

Now for new things that we want to plant: kale, spinach,oniin, garlic,broccoli, peas, celery, and potatoes. The plants that we are doing again but in larger quantities so hopefully I will get some: green beans, carrots, peppers, tomotoes, and pumpkins. tongue

Since this is a new growing area as well I will be probably spending more time learning about how to grow here compared to in NE. Good luck to all!! Very Happy
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Post  gregrenee88 on 11/3/2012, 4:55 pm

We plan to build 2-2x5 beds that would connect our 4x4 beds. If you were to look down from above it will look like a capital E. We had 4 tom plants but want to only do 2; try corn; plant a boatload more of onions & red potatoes and let one of our beds become a strawberry bed only. That is it so far but we have plenty of time to come up with more ideas! Very Happy

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Post  CindiLou on 11/4/2012, 11:36 pm

I want to plant less bean, try some corn maybe. I want to be better at my potatoes! I got a few but could have gotten lots more!

Take better notes! And don't lose them! I know what garlic I planted last year and what I replanted. But I don't know the names! When I replanted last week i was glad I labeled them 1,2,3,4! If I ever find last years notes I'll know the names! I replanted the early and the largest rofl

**whispers** and I need more beds...... rofl really thought I was done building but I want more! I just can't tell the kids though or I will have a mutiny! I wouldn't need more but my onions and garlic take up a 4x6 and a 4x4! And I want at least one more 4x6 if this winter harvest turns out. So that is 2 4x6s and a 4x4 at least rofl I can dream can't I? Shocked

And plant my banana peppers on the back side of bell peppers! They got huge!

And I think no brussel sprouts. They take a lot of room and I am the only one that eats them.

And do more companion planting and more intensive planting...for example next year I want to plant basil with the tomato and maybe some radishs with the broccoli, for example.

Oh heck, I am just gonna replan the whole thing rofl

Isn't that what winter is for?




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Post  southern gardener on 11/5/2012, 2:33 am

I would not use the pre made mix. Has anyone used GARDNER & BLOOME® SOIL BUILDING COMPOST NATURAL & ORGANIC SOIL AMENDMENT as part of the ingredients for the compost part of the mix? If all else fails, we may have to start again, and make our own mix, and would like to use this as part of the 5 composts.... Thanks for any info..
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Post  donnainzone5 on 11/5/2012, 10:15 am

Yes, I tried Gardner & Bloom Soil Building Compost a few years ago.
My results were mediocre at best--although I know that others have had great experiences with this product.

However, I tried G&B's Harvest Supreme for the first time last spring and was quite impressed!

Both products seem to have a lot of not-yet-composted wood slivers, but I haven't seen any large chunks.
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Post  southern gardener on 11/5/2012, 10:59 am

donnainzone10 wrote:Yes, I tried Gardner & Bloom Soil Building Compost a few years ago.
My results were mediocre at best--although I know that others have had great experiences with this product.

However, I tried G&B's Harvest Supreme for the first time last spring and was quite impressed!

Both products seem to have a lot of not-yet-composted wood slivers, but I haven't seen any large chunks.

thank you for the info. i was looking on their site and saw the Harvest Supreme. Do you know what the difference is? ty again!
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Post  Nonna.PapaVino on 11/5/2012, 11:44 am

Transfer the two strawberry beds to a new 2x16' bed against base of greenhouse, and add hardware cloth bottoms to the two 4'x4' old strawberry beds. Renew the Mel's mix in them and plant my potatoes there (best yielders this year were Rose Finn and Chieftan, so will re-plant them). Will create a new bale bed for the Kennebec potatoes and try layering them for bigger yield. And, will buy 4-6 more cattle panels for even more soup beans (Good Mother Stallard last summer). Would like to take one of the old long beds (from original SFG book era) and arch 3 or 4 panels over it to make a "cold frame" arrangement for tomato and pepper starts moved out from greenhouse--maybe get fruit earlier. Well, we can always hope, right? Nonna
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Post  donnainzone5 on 11/5/2012, 1:29 pm

Southern Gardener,

Here's the response I received from Gardner & Bloome:

Hi Donna,

We list all of the ingredients of our products on the bag. Soil Building Compost contains: Forest Humus, Chicken Manure, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Gypsum, Kelp Meal, Oyster Shell & Dolomite Limes, and Mycorrhizae. And here are the ingredients for Harvest Supreme: Fir Bark, Forest Humus, Rice Hulls, 15% Chicken Manure, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Kelp Meal, Oyster Shell Lime (Ph adjuster), and Mycorrhizae. Neither product contains peat moss.

Regards,
Fern


Fern Richardson 909.673.8036 tel
Community Manager
Kellogg Supply, Inc. @KelloggGarden
8605 Schaefer Ave. @Gardner_Bloome
Ontario, CA, 91761 http://www.kellogggarden.com/

This message may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If you received this transmission in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message and any attachment.
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Post  Hoggar on 11/5/2012, 1:40 pm

I plan on dedicating one of my 4 x 4 boxes to try three sisters planting, it sounds cool and we love sweet corn!

I also plan on running my Zucchini and summer squash up poles to see if I can defeat the late season powdery mildew.

I am very happy with my Toms but I need to add a center support to my trellis because the weight of the plants bowed the center of the 8' span down about 12 inches.

Oh and build a 3 tier strawberry bed for the wife's nasty strawberry habit. Shocked Very Happy

Thats all I can think of right now but I'm sure Ill come up with a ton more by spring. Very Happy
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Post  FamilyGardening on 11/5/2012, 1:54 pm

thought i would share a pic of our garden area from this years early spring when we used the Gardner & Bloome Soil Building Compost as a top layer of mulch.....this is what it looks like layed down on top of the soil.....im wondering if the pieces of shredded wood is the Forest Humus study ....its thru out the G&B compost....to me it looked like peat moss thinking the plants did very well in this area.... sunny ....the B&G compost is very light feeling....

What will you do different? - Page 2 03_26_10

something we would do differnt next spring is work on growing better carrots and get more hoops up.....see how early we can get cole crops to grow in the early spring..... geek

hugs
rose
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Post  southern gardener on 11/5/2012, 5:02 pm

thanks to all of you for all of your help. I spoke with a rep at Kelloggs and he gave me some ideas on what to use as well. Again, thanks for the help Smile
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Post  CindiLou on 11/5/2012, 9:38 pm

donnainzone10 wrote:
We list all of the ingredients of our products on the bag. Soil Building Compost contains: Forest Humus, Chicken Manure, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Gypsum, Kelp Meal, Oyster Shell & Dolomite Limes, and Mycorrhizae. And here are the ingredients for Harvest Supreme: Fir Bark, Forest Humus, Rice Hulls, 15% Chicken Manure, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Kelp Meal, Oyster Shell Lime (Ph adjuster), and Mycorrhizae. Neither product contains peat moss.

With the first one the first ingredient doesn't state where it is decomposed or not so it very well could be NOT. So I would be iffy on using it as other than a mulch. The second one definitely is not composted (fir bark) so that would I would probably use as a mulch.

Seems like it would be the best of both uses as a mulch, ground cover + nutrients!
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Post  Nonna.PapaVino on 11/5/2012, 9:48 pm

CindiLou, just for the record: I agree with your analysis. My experience with using an abandoned forest ant nest for one of the composts in Mel's Mix
turned out to act more like an additional helping of peat moss for the first two months, then it began to give up nutrients and things grew marvelously. Because the ant nest came from the forest behind the house, the bottom third of the nest had threads of mushrooms throughout it (mycorrhize), so perhaps that speeded the decomposition of the leaf litter/fir needle mix that made up the nest. Hey, I don't pretend to be an agricultural scientist, but I can verify that it worked. Will be interesting to see if there are lingering benefits next spring/summer. Nonna
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Post  camprn on 11/6/2012, 6:59 am

Despite having dug them out twice and putting barriers down under the mix, I am still having infiltration of tree root hairs into the beds, choking the vegetable plants. I am lifting those off the ground in the spring. Should have done it two seasons ago. silly me

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Post  Hoggar on 11/6/2012, 10:34 am

Camprn,
I had problems with Star of Bethlehem coming up through my beds through the weed cloth so I cut a square of Visqueen about 2'' wider than my boxes and laid it flat under them they can still drain and nothing comes up through the bottom.
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Post  Nonna.PapaVino on 11/6/2012, 4:59 pm

A few years ago, we had great success with eliminating weeds, even dandylion, by cutting the old carpet from a remodeling job into 3-foot strips and putting it pile down on the walkways between the beds. The walkways were then layered with straw. No old carpet this year, but I've used old rugs laid over a couple of layers of newspaper, and covered with wood chips, and it seems to work about as well. Nonna
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Post  countrynaturals on 12/3/2019, 8:55 pm

@GloriaG wrote:I will make note on my calendar of the temperature and first date I saw each type of pest or disease starting in the garden and another note when/if I got it under control.  

Many insect pests and diseases are triggered by day length, temperature, and weather conditions.  By having it on the calendar, in future, I can look back to get an idea when specific problems might crop up.
Great idea! good job!
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Post  markqz on 12/4/2019, 12:33 pm

I won't over-plant the squares.

I won't! I won't! I won't!

Well, maybe a little Wink
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Post  Dan in Ct on 12/4/2019, 3:47 pm

I have to try and remember what works for me might not work for others in other regions. Here I can use Growing Degree Days and its parameters as when to be on the look out for certain insects and diseases which will help me immensely in teaching Phenology here locally. I just finished the course at the USA-NPN Local Phenology Leader course and was wondering why everyone wasn't jumping on the GDDs band wagon. Well it will work here but in the desert southwest, rain/water is the trigger and not temperature. Where it doesn't get below freezing I don't know how well GDDs work. But the thing I am definitely going to change is in keeping a gardening journal from March 1st until the end of season in Oct, usually. most ended in April. some into May but never the entire season and not with enough data to learn from. I am calling 2020 The Year of Hindsight and the year I begin garden journaling seriously. For those in the Northern Tier of US here is a pdf from Ohio State on Growing Degree Days. 

 http://cues.cfans.umn.edu/old/Web/049DegreeDays.pdf
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